It’s Saturday already and tonight we will go to the apartment of my husband’s cousin, Jean-Denis and his wife Marie. But we do have an interesting day planned.
As usual, it seems that whenever we are in France—there’s something going on.
I was here for the Taxi strike. It was not pretty.
We were in France for the infamous Taxi strike a couple of years back, an Air France strike that had us teetering on the edge of having to rent a car to drive from Nice back to Paris.
And yeah–I was in France during this Air France strike too.
This year, it was the Manifestation of the “Yellow Jackets” A large group of right-wingers who came into Paris from all over France to protest the rising tax on gasoline. I’m not going to get into French politics here but it seems that the middle class is affected by rising costs throughout the world. It’s a global thing but this manifestation went too far. Luckily, we weren’t affected.
And this year–I was in Paris for the Demonstration of the Yellow Jackets! (Shhhh–don’t tell anyone but it’s more dangerous here in the States where you can be shot at any time by a crazed gun owner!)
However, the sad thing is that it did affect shoppers who traveled into Paris to do some Holiday shopping. I’ll leave it at that.
Anyway, we woke up at ten in the morning—which I almost freaked out from oversleeping. But my husband assured me that I was being very American and that I should just go with the flow. And by this time, he wasn’t even thinking in English. He was speaking to me in French and thankfully, I can understand the language.
Oui, oui! My husband forgets that English is my first language and speaks to me in French when we’re in Paris–it’s because he stopped thinking in English! Oh Merde!
With news on TV of the manifestation, we had to think about our route to the cemetery to visit Danielle. I was willing to walk but a certain someone was a bit chilly and so we cabbed it to Montparnasse. And, get this—the man who never forgets anything forgot to bring his money! Luckily the cabs are well-equipped to take credit and debit cards.
Another rainy morning–I was willing to hoof it but we ended up in a cab!
Montparnasse Cemetery, for some odd reason, is a very relaxing place for me. There’s something very soothing about being in the center of the souls from centuries and decades past. Row upon row of crowded headstones and sculptures –it’s almost akin to an outdoor exhibition.
Perhaps it’s the time of year but I find this place to be a very comforting and soothing one. The French cemetaries are much different than ours.
With signs like this, it’s easy to find your way around..
From the old ….
….to the modern–it’s like an art exhibition!
A spigot with water and a watering can for those who need to water the flowers..
A war memorial. Those little jars are candles. I thought they were tomato sauce but Bonaparte explained what they really were.
But this time, as we entered through the iron gates, I felt tears running down my face and it wasn’t from the cold and rain. It was because for that moment, I wished that Daniele hadn’t died. I wanted her to still be around—perhaps I was being selfish but I really felt that emptiness and just wanted her to be next to me so we could go arm and arm to her cabinet, grab a botte of Porto and giggle and laugh.
I had a little conversation with her after I tidied up and kissed her goodbye. I know she saw us.
I cleaned up some leaves that fell on her and her husband Yves’ grave and pulled a few weeds just to make things tidier. Bonaparte was unusually quiet as he walked over to his cousin Zazi’s grave.
Bonaparte spent time with his cousin–in reality they were more like brothers.
And then–we left. Just like that.
And then we made our way out to take a glimpse to see what became of the art gallery that Daniele ran on the side. It’s a mosaic shop now.
It’s hard to believe that this little Mosaic shop was an art gallery –if those wals could talk..
Things change so quickly.
We walked up Blvd. Raspail — my husband was starting to come down with a cold so we stopped at a pharmacy and let me tell you something–those French pharmacists are like doctors. It’s a hypochondriac’s dream. If I lived in Paris every single pharmacist would know me personally!
One of my favorite boulevards for wandering..
Decorating the awnings…
Looking festive!
More Christmas trees—and these were huge!
I was tempted to buy all of these at the pharmacy!
Christmas wreaths!
We found an ATM and took respite from the cold and damp by enjoying a nice hot cup of Café Crème.
Always a good idea for a cafe creme and a croissant!
Wandering around, Bonaparte had the idea to stop at Dalloyau across from the Jardin du Luxembourg. We’ve been going there regularly for years and a mid-afternoon pastry would hold us over till dinner.
I was so upset that Dalloyau closed I couldn’t steady my phone!
It was closed. Things change so quickly. I don’t know why that location was closed because the shop was always busy but I guess it’s the way things are now.
The police were placed all over the city because of the demonstration. Those police may look like little nuggets of law but they are as tough as nails and in great shape!
I swear to you, I’ve never seen the streets in Paris this empty–not even on Sunday morning! That demonstration made it great for anyone who wanted to walk around the city streets!
All was not lost though, because we decided to catch the Alphonse Mucha exhibit at the Musee du Luxembourg. The line wasn’t long when we arrived and the twenty-minute wait was well worth the treasures that were inside!
I was thrilled that we got to see the Mucha exhibition!!!
He was mucha talented!
The way he showcased women was so gorgeous and ethereal..
Illustrations.
And more
Posters.
I’m completely mesmerized by Mucha’s style
I saw this bust at an exhibition at Petit Palais a few years back and was happy to see it again!
I purchased a book with posters to be framed!
Art Nouveau may have been a fleeting movement in the art world, but I love everything about it. Especially the illustrations and paintings and this exhibit was everything and more! It didn’t surprise me that it was incredibly crowded either and by the time we left the small museum, the line was outside the museum, outside the gate and down the street!
More walking–back to the hotel.
But first–I must stop to look at Christmas Ornaments!
I would not mind a bag of the real stuff!
The mist turned into a light rain and we got our exercise by walking back to the hotel—just in time for a nice rest before heading out to dinner at Jean Denis and Marie’s.
Sorry I have no pictures of our dinner but I left my phone at the hotel.
Bonne Nuit!
Sunday had a more ambitious schedule ahead. Stay tuned for Part Four!
Jolie Sapins! Carli Bruni sings a French Christmas Song for you!
Thanks so much for sharing your trip. It brings back memories of being in Europe in the fall and winter. You are kind to us voyeurs!
And you are looking so beautiful!
Hi Yolanda! Thank you so much. Ohhhh you’re not a voyeur–you are a friend of this blog and as such–we share! Again thank you–it’s always a pleasure to share our adventures throughout France–especially Paris!! XOXOXOXO
Lovely post, Cathy. We saw the Mucha exhibit in September where there was also a wait, but welol worth it!
French pharmacists seem more knowledgeable than UU doctors in my opinion.
Paris in the rain is better than no Paris. I love her any time!😁❤️
Hi Sandra! I’m with you! I find the French pharmacists a health-worrier’s dream! LOL. That Mucha exhibit was just so beautiful. I hope it comes stateside so I can see it a second time! And I agree–Paris in rain is better than no Paris!! XOXOXOXO
Loving this all. Can’t wait for tomorrow.
Hi Sandy! I’m a day or so late–working on the post today!!!! XOXOXOXO
Fun to read of your travels! Love Mucha. The Mucha Museum in Prague is fantastic if you ever get the chance to visit the city.
Vava! I would LOVE to to visit Prague and head to that museum. My son loved Prague when he was there a couple of years ago!! XOXOXOXO
Catherine,
I always love, love reading about and seeing your pictures of your trips to Paris. Now that I have the time, my health will not permit it, but I had always wanted to travel to Paris. My dream would be to stay in a small apartment there and walk the streets, eat at the cafes and fine restaurants, shop, enjoy the fabulous architecture, and people watch. So, I thoroughly enjoy living vicariously through your visits there.
I love that Bonaparte starts speaking only French when he gets back to France. I know a little French from classes in high school, so I enjoy reading the signs, posters, etc. that are included in your posts about your travels to France.
Sorry you both caught colds on this trip.
Thanks again for your glimpses of Paris life!
Annr
Hi Anne! Oh…we were very fortunate to have an apartment to “live” when Daniele was alive and since then, our trips to Paris have been small ones so we stay at the same hotel around the corner from where she lived. But when we are in the South, we always rent an apartment–it lends itself well to how everyday living is–and the next visit to Paris where we spend a week or so we will definitely rent an apartment. Yeah. It’s very charming how he just slides back into his native thought process. I love it!
The colds, thank you are almost gone but boy–they were doozies.
And you are most welcome to join me on our visit!! XOXOXOXO
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Oh those French policemen – so handsome, sighhhhhh, – I mean French and in a uniform, totally unfair, how could anyone compete with that? Glad you are still able to be able to get out and about despite the problems, there is something about a Paris cemetery, they are not sad depressing places at all are they – I find them incredibly moving and lovely in the way they honour the dead.
Juliet. Yayuh. Those French cops–Oh to the la la la!! I agree about the Paris cemetaries. They are just not morose or dark–they are soothing and lovely!! XOXOXOXO
Oh and the Mucha exhibition – fabulous
You got that right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OXOXOXO
I have strolled in Montoarnase cemetery by myself one year, the hotel was nearby. I too found it quiet and relaxing.
I spent a long time responding to your post the day Vincent picked out the yellow sac, and then my computer lost Wifi, and I lost my long response…not a chance it can be duplicated but suffice it to say that our Paris sentiments are similar. The City gets into your soul and stays there, and every return is a homecoming. Every flight back here is satisfying, right before the longing kicks back in…
Rue de Rennes…one of my favorite strolling rues in all of the City.
LOVE the yellow bag…
And I LOVE La Cimitiere de Montparnasse. I love everything about it, as you point out in your post, from the humble to the grandiose, the memorials to war victims, the art on the tombstones, how close together everyone is, and the well labelled ‘rues’ inside so you can find your way. I LOVE reading the names, and I love how the cemetery is in a neighborhood…
It doesn’t take long for the French to dominate. I love that about being in a bicultural marriage. For Frank, though, that stops the sec the work day ends, so I get French every day.
We really should consider getting together…
Meilleure Voeux
Joyeux Noel et Bonne Annee 2019,
Maribeth
Bonjour Maribeth. I’m in agreement with all you said and I do believe that in 2019, after the holidays are over we should get together. I think it would be great for the Frenchmen to meet as well as you and I!!! XOXOXOXO
Beautiful picture of you. I have enjoyed your blog very much. But at my age, I can not tolerate anyone saying negative things about the country I love. Here in the South, we may have a different outlook than you do in the Northern part of the our Country. If you love France and think it is so much greater than America, move there. Please don’t bash where you live. Our Country has a lot of problems, but we are not alone in that. I wish you continued success in your blog.
Hi Sue. As always, all comments are welcome on this blog. Especially those that call for debate. At my age, I cannot tolerate false judgement. Where did I ever state that I cannot stand America? It would be greatly appreciated if you could point that out to me. And while I realize that there is still a mental civil war going on between some of those who live in the South and some who live in the North, I personally think that is something that should have disappeared decades ago.
Now. I am an American. As such, I enjoy the freedoms that come with my being an American. That means I am free to criticize and state my opinions–for many in other countries do not have that right. I also VOTE. As it is my duty as an American. And by voting, I excercise my right to complain and praise. I.e I am praising the blue wave. I am complaining about the man in the white house who debases women and those with disabilities. Did you know that I had a sister who was mentally and physically disabled? That’s why I don’t tolerate ANY president who pokes fun at people such as my sister, who passed.
I can visit any country and praise what I like and criticise what I feel is a shortcoming.. And that’s why I have MY blog. To state my opinions.
Sue–there is a blog for everyone. Some are better reading blogs with no substance. That’s not my style.
And as an American you have every right to read what you want and don’t want.
Thank you for your comment-always welcome! Enjoy the holidays and best to you and your family! XOXOXOXO
Lovely post and I really felt for you on your visit to the cemetery, in fact I had a tear in my eye. Many years ago I strolled through there and the district, you could be miles away from a busy city. i look forward to reading your final post. Jill x
Hi Jill! The one place that I feel is necessary to visit is the cemetary at Montparnasse. Daniele may be gone from earth, but I love to still visit her to thank her for all she’s done for me. Thank you for you warmth! I”m working on the final post now!!!!! XOXOXOXOX
I shall look forward to reading it. I am just working on my next post which will be about our choice of perfumes. Enjoy what is left of the weekend. X