There is always something to share regarding shopping, dining and other tips and unwanted advice when it comes to our trips to Paris.  This year was no exception.  I learn something with every trip and this time around, learned that due to the crowds that have been visiting, we will need to get tickets to the Louvre and Orsay in advance.

Never before have we ever had to wait in a line to enter the Louvre or Orsay. We learned a valuable lesson during this trip. In the future. GET THE TICKETS!!

So, like Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music, let’s start at the very beginning…

Packing:  There is a new (or perhaps not-so-new) trend with packing only carry-on bags for a week, two weeks, three weeks and more.  If it works for you, fine.  However, over the years I’ve noticed that the description of carry -on baggage is changing. Backpacks, as personal items are getting bigger.  The carry-on measurements oftentimes go past what qualifies.  Luckily airlines are catching on to this and making people check their many carry-on items.  I bring one carry on, one personal item and check the rest of my luggage which consists of a large suitcase. The suitcase is filthy and I prefer it that way.  However, the past two trips I’ve taken, I have used a cheap cover from Amazon and I am able to spot my suitcase immediately.

This suitcase is absolutely filthy on the outside. However, it serves the purpose of having a ton of space for all my clothing, beauty items and stuff that I’ll buy to take home!

I purchased a cover for it to make it look more presentable. My Longchamp carry-on is perfect for my wigs, a change of clothing just in case and fits beautifully in the overhead.  The vintage LV Randonee (that I had the vachetta replaced) is shoved under the airline seat. It is a workhorse of a bag!

Allow me to explain why this is a pet-peeve. Its inconsiderate of other passengers. I want my carry on to be in the overhead directly above me. I don’t want some self-important traveler who is sitting ten rows in front of me taking up my overhead space. It is a vicious cycle.

Buy an Air Tag.  I love mine. I can track my luggage and when I arrive at my destination, I can see where it is…

Besides, winter weather can be challenging.  Some days it can be warm enough for a blazer and others, boots, hats, gloves, scarves, and the heaviest winter coat you own.  I am not stuffing that stuff into a carry on to get wrinkled.

This is December in Paris. The day started out cold but by afternoon, I was wearing a blazer. Pack for changes in the weather!

My point is, be mindful when packing—that is all.

Accommodations:   When my husband’s aunt, Daniele was alive, we stayed with her at her apartment. I got spoiled.  It was a penthouse apartment.  We had a view of the Eiffel Tower sticking its head above the buildings.  She had a housekeeper and cook. I didn’t have to wash clothing or iron and all my meals were taken care of and were spectacular.

It was great to be in her kitchen and see this fun view! And at night, the view from her living room had this tower sparkling!

After Daniele passed, it was time to stay at hotels.  We enjoyed staying at the Prince de Conti but it is now under renovation.  One year we stayed at Citadines which was next door to Daniele’s apartment at 53 quai des Grandes Augustines.  It was horrible. The carpeting was filthy and there was a very questionable large stain on the sofa. Suffice it to say, we never returned.

This time we stayed at Hotel de Buci on Rue de Buci. We LOVED it and will be staying there in the future.  The hotel isn’t inexpensive but it is not on the price point of staying at the Plaza Athenee.

This is now our favorite hotel…

The staff was incredibly accommodating and nice.  The rooms beautiful. The bathroom had a tub.  The housekeeping staff was amazing and the in-house breakfast was excellent.  I didn’t get to the spa because there was no time but if time allowed, I would have.

The staff was incredibly nice, and attentive.

This was our room and I am still coveting that wallpaper!

The hidden door to the bathroom–proving how details are so wonderful!

And the location!  Smack in the Sixth!  It was ridiculously convenient—for us!

My advice for accommodations is, first, find the area you want to stay in. Then research, research, research hotels.  Google is your friend when it comes to this.  And don’t ignore reviews.  Keep away from influencer reviews because they are receiving the stay as a gift so everything will be sunshine pumped up your a$$.  Trip Advisor and Google reviews have opinions from people who pay.  Do you catch my drift?  For us, the sixth is always special.  From the time I met Vincent’s aunt, Daniele Delorme, we had the best connection. She was my second mother and I could not stay anywhere else!

Many prefer Airbnb but for us, it is too risky.  I’ve read too many horror stories and the French government is putting more and more regulations on these types of rentals.  There are agencies you can reach out to rent apartments for the short-term so I suggest, if you do not want to stay in a hotel—head to Google to find a real-estate agent specializing in short-term rentals.

Accommodations can make or break your stay so be mindful!

Shopping: Who doesn’t love shopping in Paris (or any city for that matter)?  With a plethora of small shops and boutiques to the luxury designer houses, and to the flea markets, Paris offers something for everyone who loves to shop.

This store, Oona, on Rue Dauphine has been here for quite a few years. The items are simple and beautiful..and my daughter is named Oona! Shopping in small shops is a pleasurable experience!

I have found out there are two ways to approach shopping.  One is to take a designated shopping day.  The other is to incorporate shopping around seeing the sites.  For example, if you are going to be in the First Arrondissement at the Louvre or seeing other sites, you can incorporate heading to a shop or two in the area.

Faure le Page, in the First Arrondissement, is a great boutique to drop into if you are out and about seeing the sights nearby.  I had a very nice time shopping here in 2023.

And you do not need to spend a fortune either.   Paris offers some great discounts.   If you are not a “luxury” bag person, I very strongly suggest you head to Sophie Sacs on Rue de Rennes. It is a tiny shop (it used to be even tinier until and expansion a few years ago) with tons of leather bags and even some vegan bags to choose from. Small bags. Large bags.  Buttery soft bags. Structured bags.  Small leather and non-leather goods. It’s all here.  And the owner is so sweet. He is extremely helpful and always has a smile on his face.  Over the years I’ve made many purchases at this shop.

I snapped this pic when the shop was closed. It is tiny but is a treasure trove!

This time around I purchased a small cross-body bag that holds a lot more than you would think.  It is very expensive looking and cost only €45!

At 45 euros, this bag was well-worth it. Made-In-Italy, leather, it is small but holds the essentials! Proof that you don’t need to spend a fortune!

Inasmuch as luxury bags are concerned, I’m rather fond of Louis Vuitton. And although most of my LV bags are vintage that were purchased from Japan and sent to LV repair for Vachetta replacement, I purchased items from the Louis Vuitton boutique on Blvd. St.-Germain.   It’s never crowded (except during the Holidays and even then, it isn’t too bad) but last month I waited 5 minutes to get in due to the Black Friday weekend.

This year’s purchase was the LV MM Agenda. It’s already chock full of everything to keep me organized..

The staff is wonderful.  In fact, I am recommending if you go to try to make an appointment with Cumba Balde, I have added a photo of her card. She is both amazing and adorable!  The manager of the store is equally adorable.  You will receive great assistance and the shop is small and very user-friendly if you do not like a huge shop.

Make the appointment with Ms. Balde. She is great! And while you’re at it, make a dinner reservation at La Bourse et la Vie. The meal was marvelous!

Case in point.  I wanted to purchase a MM Agenda. I was so jet-lagged when we went in on Saturday, November 30^th, that when I (Oops. I mean my husband) purchased it, I forgot to get my initials heat-stamped.  I went back later in the week and there was no issue.  I am waiting for our next visit to purchase a Pochette Metis—and I look forward to seeing Ms. Balde and the store’s manager!

This trip was my “bag” trip.  I saw a large tote that piqued my interest. It was from Le Tanneur, a leather goods shop that has been in Paris since 1898.  But when I saw the tote in real life, I wasn’t in love with it. Instead, I opted for a smaller cross-body bag, the Sophie.

The year of my cross-body bags!

Pleased with the roominess and quality of this bag!

And now I will tell you a story about the in-store VAT tax refund.

Read carefully.

We went to Galeries Lafayette to admire the store’s windows all done up for Christmas.  Then we went in to see the tree, which was nice.  Galeries Lafayette has done better but still, it was nice.  We also had put aside some time for a bit of shopping.  Vincent purchased a cashmere sweater but at that point, the store was just too crowded for me.

Nice but not spectacular

Instead, we headed across the street to Printemps—which was delightfully more manageable. While there we noticed an area where Le Tanneur bags were being sold. Rather than head to the brand’s shop on Rue de Sevres, very close to our hotel, it was easier to look at Printemps.  Purchase in hand we were ready to walk back to the hotel with a stop at Monoprix.

The display that drew me in.

I cannot recall how we found out, but we did discover that both Printemps and Galeries Lafayette have in-house areas where you can get your VAT refund immediately.

What is the VAT refund?  Explanation.  For non-EU residents it is a tax refund that can be received at around 12 percent of the purchase. For purchases over 100 Euros and more, this VAT refund is decent.

You can head to the kiosk at the airport and submit the forms before heading to your flight or…. some stores have an area where you can get the VAT refund sooner than later.  Some stores work differently.  No matter how the stores work, you must have your passport at time of purchase and have a few moments to allow the sales assistants to fill the information for you.

For convenience sake, head to the airport extra early to go to the VAT kiosk. There could be a line and maybe not! Better be safe than sorry!

Now. Pay attention. It was not until a few days after making these purchases that we were made aware of the in-house VAT (we never bothered in years past because our flights were always very early). Printemps VAT rule was that you could not use the in-house VAT refund process after three days of purchase. 

So…. that Friday, after going to the Opera Garnier, we headed to Galeries Lafayette to get the VAT refund on the sweater Vincent purchased.  Then, as a lark we headed to Printemps to do more shopping and to see, if we could, in fact, get the refund even though it was past three days of purchase.

We headed to Chanel Beauty to purchase a bottle of Mademoiselle for Oona and for a bottle of Chance for Vincent’s daughter and granddaughter.  Oh. And I also picked up a lip balm.

Off we went to the VAT Refund area.  Here’s where you need to realize how helpful the sales assistants are.   Before acquiring the refund for the Chanel items, we asked about acquiring a refund for the Le Tanneur purse.

It was suggested to head to the Le Tanneur area, ask for a refund on the purse then immediately repurchase.  I was a bit skeptical because I’ve read and heard horror stories that under no circumstances will a refund be given in any store in Paris.

Do not believe everything you hear.

Upon explaining our situation to the sales assistant, she went to get a manager. We were able to return and repurchase the bag with no issues whatsoever.  Did it help that my husband did all the talking in his native tongue?  I dunno. Maybe. Maybe not. All I know is there was no issue and everyone involved was pleasant with me being rather humble and very grateful.

Off we went to get the refund.  The machines are self-explanatory.  You need your passport and receipt of purchase and there are assistants there to guide you through the process.  You have the choice of getting cash or having it go to your card. We chose cash and it was easy-peasy.

At Printemps

Important information

There are a number of VAT kiosks in an organized line..

You can readily scan your documents..

Opt for cash if you want and that’s it!

For the Louis Vuitton purchase and Guerlain purchases we made at Samaritaine, we had the paperwork filled out and dropped it off at the Kiosk at CDG airport.  I am confident our next statement will have the refund.

I realize this is long-winded but it’s really a good thing to know you can get a VAT refund at some stores on the same day. Caveat:  There is a small fee for this processing, but it is more convenient.

Scent was another big expenditure.

I ran out of La Petite Robe Noire and L’Instant—two scents from Guerlain that are my go-to’s.   Might I mention that at both Guerlain and Chanel, a ton of samples were stuffed into the bags! My husband picked up his favorite Guerlain scent.  This was done at Samaritaine Dept. Store and, once again, the assistance was stellar.

It wasn’t all about my purchases. This is my husband’s favorite scent. It’s his signature and smells soooooo good! Oh lalalalala!

My favorite “Spring” scent..

I can’t find the photo I took but I’m so happy that L’Instant now comes in the old-school Guerlain bottles. It’s my “winter” scent!

Clothing is something I do not buy in Paris because my body leans towards the athletic side and I’m big-boned. The clothing doesn’t fit well for me.

At the airport’s Duty Free I picked up Paris St. Germain beanie hats for my sons.

What to wear: Head to any travel group on social media and you will see a plethora of posts on what to wear.  It is even worse on TikTok and YouTube.

Wear whatever you want to wear.  Exception being pajama bottoms while out and about or skirts that are so short that you can see your Origin of the World when you bend over.  “They” say not to wear leggings but, I’ve seen plenty of women out and about in them. The responses that I’ve seen by armchair fashionistas on what to wear and what not to wear are almost laughable.

My Temu special. The coat was around $25. And it is perfect. Kept me warm. Nobody knew it was a cheapie. As long as you are neat and not wearing anything offensive, you’ll be fine!

Years ago, Paris, as in New York or any large city whether abroad or domestically, was a mecca of women (and men) dressed to the nines.  I remember going shopping in Manhattan as a child and we had to dress up. Even when attending a movie or going to the theatre. My mother would not have it any other way.

It used to be like that in Paris. In fact, when I first started visiting, I would get more dressed up than down.  Now, my ensembles consisted of jeans (skinny ones at that) during the day and even for a casual dinner, and black pointe pants.  In addition, I wore black sweaters.  It’s easier for me to be monochromatic and take one color (black) than an assortment because I’m lazy and don’t want to spend time mulling over what to wear.  I took two pairs of loafers. One black and one cordovan.   I wore a sweater dress once. Out to dinner. With boots. That was it.

My go-to dinner outfit. Black ballet flats. Black pointe ankle pants. Black sweater. Scarf.  Comfortable yet appropriate.

Please for your sanity. Unless you will be parading up and down looking for approval on Avenue Foch in the 16^th, wear what you deem most comfortable and what is you!  Don’t dress to impress.  You are the one who matters.  Nobody knows you. Nobody cares. Just take a bath or shower, put on deodorant, and brush your teeth.

This was the Paris my husband’s grandfather photographed. One no longer needs to dress as if in a Jacques-Henri Lartigue photo.

The French are Different.  Learn Basic Words:  and phrases.  Always—and I stress, always say “Bonjour” upon entering an establishment.  I forgot my “bonjour” at a museum and my husband elbowed me harder than any elbow I have ever given to tourists when I lived in NYC.   I made up for it with a huge “bonjour” and the museum guide thought it was the funniest thing ever.  All three of us ended up laughing.  But seriously, that one word will make for pleasantries throughout your day.  Leaving or exiting?  An “au revoir” will do or better yet “bonne journee”.  You don’t have to be fluent or half-fluent.  Know your shoe size.  Know colors.  Use your “merci” (thank you) and your “s’il te plaît » (please). The French are very polite.  Unlike here in the USA (Yes. I am being honest) where everything is fake-friendly with the big toothy smile and everyone knows your name, in France the tone is a bit formal.  And extremely polite.

Don’t ever do this with a baguette unless you want to start another French Revolution!  Be respectful and polite!

Also, use your indoor voice.  Trust me. I come from a very LOUD NY FAMILY.  Usually, a week or so before heading to France my husband will gently remind me to practice my indoor voice. AKA my soft voice.  It is difficult but it can be done!

Transportation:  Paris is a great city for hoofin’ it. (walking).  Even during the colder months, it is not bitter cold and walking is a great way to exercise.  Have difficulty walking or have an impairment?  Uber and cabs are your friends. For us, G7 is our cab of choice and we’ve been using them for two decades.  The metro is another easy and quick way to get around.  I will be honest here.  My husband grew up in a privileged household and did not use the metro—he rode buses and his two cents is ride the bus. It gives you an opportunity to see Paris from the streets.

While some tourists do not like G7, we have never had an issue. It’s the cab company we use.

Another thing about the Metro.  Many online forums will have horror stories blown out of proportion regarding pick pockets.  Use your common sense.  Carry that bag close to your person.  Be mindful of your surroundings.   The funny thing is I never read about foreigners to the States being petrified of guns and our mass shootings.  Paris is safer than any major city in the USA.  Remember that.

I’ve been on the Metro only a handful of times. However, living in NYC has taught me to be aware of my surroundings. In New York, the subway was my mode of travel. If I lived in Paris, I would be taking the metro every day.  Just be mindful.

If you love to drive. And I mean love to drive—especially in cities, might I suggest renting a car?  Hear me out on this.  Having a vehicle allows you freedom.  It’s so much easier to drive out of Paris and enjoy a beautiful drive to Vaux-le-Vicomte or Chantilly, Fontainebleau or even Versailles.  You can do a little detour and drive through quaint villages. Or enjoy the scenery.

Driving in Paris is definitely a challange. But..you don’t need to be James Bond to drive there. Would I drive in Paris? No. It is a bit more challenging than NYC but my husband LOVES driving in his home town!

About an hour’s drive and we were in the splendor of Fontainebleu.

We even saw horses!

Also, when you are driving, you are on your schedule and not the schedule of a train or bus.  It allows you some freedom.  I’m not saying this is for everyone.  I am merely suggesting if you love driving, rent a car!

It’s also fun to see the sights from different views.

Besides–who doesn’t love to have their own private chauffeur?

Good Eats – The Restaurants, Bistros, Cafes:  Let me make myself clear.  Although I am not a food snob, but  I have no patience for those who say they don’t like French cuisine. You do not have to be a fan of escargot or bone marrow, but you can always find a great roast chicken and steak frites.

And you can also get a great burger. The burgers at Cafe de Paris on Rue de Buci are the best I’ve ever had in my life! Two years in a row!

We take the pragmatic route and include our meals into our budget.  One thing we do, and this is not for everyone, we skip lunch. There is a method to our madness here and has nothing to do with a budget.  It is all about time.

Having a substantial breakfast allows us to make the most of our day.  Many venues clear out during the lunch hours and are less crowded.  This is blissful.   Also, we cannot see sitting for an hour or two eating lunch when we know we’re going to have a very substantial dinner.  Our time in Paris and throughout France is limited to weeks at a time.  We want to make the most of it.

Beware of dining establishments with pages and pages of menu offerings.   They are sure to be tourist traps.  Oftentimes the fare is frozen food warmed up.  Again, it is a personal choice.

Many deem one of our favorite restaurants as a tourist trap but we disagree.  Le Procope.  It is one of the oldest restaurants in Paris.  Voltaire, Balzac, Danton, Ben Franklin and more enjoyed meals, conversation, and great debate there.  It is a bit of history that brings you back to a time completely different than that of which we presently live.

Disreguard any pretentious or disparaging reviews of Procope. It’s fine! The service is wonderful. The food very good. And it is chock-full of history!

Table settings are perfect.  The offerings are old-school.  I was infuriated when Rognons (kidneys) were taken off the menu but now they are back and I am a happy camper. The food is fine.  It isn’t haute cuisine but is consistently very good.

Reservations are a must and don’t be offended by what I will tell you next.  Dress appropriately.  On our first night during last month’s visit, making reservations for dinner completely slipped our minds.  When my husband suggested we stop at Procope to see if we could get a reservation for that night, I doubted we could but…. I went along with it.

Both of us were dressed appropriately.  Not like slobs.  My husband very politely and nicely asked if we could get a reservation for that night at 7 :30 PM.   With a smile, we got the reservation and the people behind us were turned away.  My guess—you don’t go into a restaurant wearing a baseball cap, shorts, and sneakers to ask for a last-minute reservation or any reservation.  Use common sense.

Allard is another favorite.  Seriously. We love dining out in Paris!

Being older and American and Franco-American, we made all our dinner reservations between 7 o’clock and 8 :00 PM.   An earlier timeframe allows for walking around to exercise the extra calories off!

Neighborhood places are wonderful.  Blend in with the locals.  Try to dine in the arrondissement where you are staying because you will discover fantastic gems of places.

Try to order in the French language—even if your knowledge is basic, it will be greatly appreciated.

The French Pharmacie : Pharmacies in Paris and throughout France are wonderful.  They aren’t chains like CVS or Rite-Aid.  Each has its individual flair and if you come down with a cold or sore throat or any minor mishap, you will be well-taken care of.

CityPharma is where I head when I want to purchase skincare.

Let’s talk about the other subject matter of the French pharmacie.  Skincare products. Go online to any travel forum or head to Instagram or TikTok and Influencers will pontificate how OBSESSED they are with French skincare brands and how the price point is so great.

Yes.  And. No. The price of skincare is worth the trip to a pharmacie when in Paris or any part of France.  But you need to know what is best for your needs.

For example—I am a huge fan of Embryolisse.  I love this cream and have been using it for years. It really does a great job moisturizing my dry skin.  A couple of years ago, CityPharma, my pharmacie of choice for skincare items, ran out of stock.  Instead, another brand was suggested and I purchased.  I hated it. It was nowhere near the job Embryolisse did.  When I arrived home, I ordered on Amazon making me spend more money in the end.

My well-used and well-loved Embryolisse. I cannot live without it.

There is also an obsession with A313 Pomade.  It is good but isn’t a Holy Grail.  Many women swear by it.  For me, it’s good for the bleak, cold, dry of winter.  I use it only at night.  Would I purchase again?   Probably not.

Biafine is a cream I would repurchase.  Being the one with skin that tends to burn, this is soothing. Last summer while in France, I got a bit of sun poisoning on my lips, blowing them up as though I had filler.  A pharmacist recommended this and I’ve been using it since.

Hands down, it is just as good as Embryolisse for moisturizing skin. The size of the tube is generous soi t lasts for a long time.

The lip balm pictured here was the worst I’ve ever used. However, it might be good for you. 

Last month I was looking for a good lip balm due to my perpetually chapped lips during winter.  At CityPharma the La Roche-Posay Cicaplast lip balm was recommended.  I can’t stand it! First, you need to squeeze the tube hard to get product out.  And it doesn’t spread smoothly.  I prefer the Chanel overpriced lip balm or the generic € 1 generic lip balms that are available.

My point?  You can purchase great skincare products for a fraction of the price but know your skin.

Little Things:  I’m not big on tacky souvenirs. And I try to make purchases that will fit into my every-day life.  That’s why one of the little things I love are the shopping sacs from Monoprix.  I buy them in multiples and give them as little gifts.  I keep one in every purse because you just never know when you will need a stop at the market and these are sustainable.

The Monoprix sacs I purchased. And the Borjois mascara. I LOVE this brand’s mascara!

Its also fun to purchase ornaments for the Christmas tree. Something to remember year after year.

Picked this up at Opera Garnier

This from Musee Marmottan

Sometimes it is the little things that help to make a trip more enjoyable. I hope some of this unwanted advise was helpful!

I LOVE these slippers from the hotel. The reminder is very pragmatic!