We are back after a little over two glorious weeks on the French Riviera!
Bonjour! Bonjour to the Cote d’Azur!
The same apartment we’ve been renting for over a decade. The same familiarity. Some things change while others remain the same.
Always a thrill to step through the threshold of the apartment..
Everything remains the same! Even the washing machine was still in place–I was so happy!
And, I must say that the bookshelf became fuller this year as I added four books!
We changed up our trip this year by concentrating on “relaxation” of which I will get to later in the post but, like Julie Andrews as Maria in The Sound of Music….” Let’s start at the very beginning” ….
Maria Von Trapp I’m not. But we’ll start at the beginning anyway..
This was the year I vowed to bring only a carryon. And once again, it never came to fruition. As usual, I packed way too many clothes-which was a good idea in theory but in real life-I lived in bathing suits and one or two dresses. That’s it.
See those shorts and the tee shirt in my carryon? I never wore them.
Yet–it was bursting at the seams…
This cute number from Lilly Pulitzer was the dress I wore almost every day. It has a built-in bra so I didn’t even need half the underwear I packed. If you recall, I also lived in this dress last year!
Despite what they (the fashion non-experts who think they are experts) say, you don’t need a lot of clothes when you head to the Bord de Mer in France. You’ll either be at poolside, or the beach then off to run errands—this kind of activity really doesn’t warrant an entire ensemble of fashion but I’ll cover that in a later post (I don’t know yet, as to how many posts I’ll be writing about our visit).
So anyway, we were all packed up. Since I do like to travel looking nice and not like a piggy slob, for this trip I wore a cute pair of linen blend shorts, a white cropped tee, a suede belt, metallic Repetto ballet flats and a linen blazer. I would have traveled without said blazer but the day we left for Nice, we experienced a deluge. Buckets of rain from the time we left the house until we arrived at the airport. It wasn’t until we were ready to board the plane that the rain stopped.
The travel ensemble. These linen-blend shorts from Old Navy were perfect! Lightweight and airy they went well with my very old J. Crew linen blazer. Ballet flats for comfort and I cannot travel in footwear that exposes feet. It’s gross.
Fake tan. Fake Nails. Fake Hair. At least I’m an honest phoney!
The Airport: We drove to Newark airport in the monsoon. Traffic, surprisingly, wasn’t bad at all—most likely because the only people on the road were storm chasers and us. My husband had the foresight (wait till our return home to hear about this debacle) to pre-pay for the economy parking—which really wasn’t purchased at an economy price. It cost close to $400 to park the car for the duration of our trip.
I dunno what year THIS sign was from but we paid more than $18 a day!
We arrived at the parking lot somewhat early so we decided to wait until the rain subsided to bust a move with our luggage and head to the little bus stop where a bus would take us to our terminal.
The rain never stopped.
Instead, we made a mad dash with our big and little luggage—a bit damp physically but our spirits were not.
We were not singing nor dancing in the rain. It was more like cursing it. But as is usual for me, the weather always sucks when I travel!
We arrived at the terminal. I was so optimistically naïve because with our TSA pre-check (we spent a lot of money on that), I figured we would be done with the security in a flash. We were not. Please allow me to state something—as much as I abhor Philadelphia International Airport, they have TSA down to a science, if you have the TSA pre, you are done with TSA in a matter of minutes. Same at JFK and Cincinnati—the airports I travel from the most. And, the TSA staff at those airports are amiable.
Before I continue. I’ll put it out there that we’re lucky enough to have three airports close by with regularly-scheduled International flights. JFK, Philadelphia, and Newark. We’re done with flying to France from Philly because the price is double that of the price at JFK and Newark. Done.
United has better prices than American. American Airlines is practicing the art of thievery when it comes to the prices at Philadelphia.
In addition, ever since COVID happened, the large economy parking lot at Philly has been closed—maybe as of the time you read this blog post, it’s opened but back in April—it was still closed.
Back to TSA. The line for Pre-check at Newark was ridiculous. Thankfully, I am an anxiety-ridden neurotic, and we arrived at the airport in plenty of time—but the time spent on TSA was time wasted—especially since the TSA workers seemed to be quite pissed off that they had a paying job.
This is basically what the TSA Pre-check looked like at Newark. What a disgrace!
I went through but a certain Frenchman was detained. Perhaps the TSA staff was jealous because he looked angrier than they did. Or perhaps it was because he looks so…..so..criminal! I’m thinking TSA thought he could have been a croissant thief! After what seemed like hours, they let him go. And when he asked me if I had his wallet, I answered “No” …so back to TSA my Frenchman went, mumbling naughty words in his native tongue. After about another hour, he had his wallet in hand and we went off to the gate to wait.
TSA couldn’t wait to get their hands and rods on my Frenchman’s body. They almost got his wallet too!
We had one-time passes for United Airlines club. And when we arrived at the lounge, we were met with a banner stating the lounge was not in service. So, I sauntered off and bought a giant-sized bag of peanut M & M’s and an equally sized bag of Raisinettes. My thinking was the Raisinettes were my fruit helping of the day and the M & M’s, as they were nuts could be considered a healthy choice. No weight loss activity for the trip—and I just about shoved anything in my mouth!
Second year in a row. United shouldn’t give passengers passes that they can’t deliver on.
Why wasn’t there an option for me to click “NOT OK”
Now, here’s the thing—it was great that the terminal at Newark had a baby grand piano next to a giant bar in said terminal’s center. The piano was for anyone who wanted to play and we were entertained by some talented people. That was pleasant.
A most pleasant surprise was the piano in the middle of the terminal!
What was ‘t great was the lack of seating for travelers. I kid you not. The seating was limited to barely there. Rather, in the middle of the seating areas between gates, stood high tables and high chairs. Not baby highchairs, but adult-sized high chairs that one had to climb up to. And at these tables were phone chargers. Basically, now while waiting to board your plane, you can sit at an overextended table, charge your phone and instead of people-watching, you can sit and play Candy Crush until you board the aircraft.
I literally had to fight for space with this guy. In the first place, I’m skeeved by birds. They are rodents with wings. In the second place, I almost got into a confrontation with this flying rodent over seating space.
As we fly economy (with non-economy prices), we never get to board first. That’s for the people who are wealthy and who are flying business class. But, aggressive assertive as I can be, I make sure we are the first people to board on Group 2. And the only reason being is I demand want my overhead space. A very pleasant surprise greeted us, though, as we boarded the plane—macarons! If it weren’t for my obsession with overhead space, I would have gone back for more!
Firmly ensconced in our little cattle-car seats, I hovered over my overhead space like a junkyard dog. One woman actually had the balls to come over to our seats and proceed to try to squeeze her stuff into our overhead. I barked “It’s full!!!!!!!!!” and she crept away like a puppy with it’s tail between her legs.
Don’t you dare try to cram your $hit into my overhead space. You–with the two backbacks, tote that is filled to capacity and your little hard luggage. No. Just. No. This is MY space!
No rain. No delays. And we were taxiing the runway. Up. Up. And away! It was time to head to France for the 2023 summer visit.
And away we go!!!!!!!!
The flight was uneventful. Just the way I like it. United has great attendants—they are all so amiable and willing to assist in any way. It was a pleasure. Honestly, it really was. Out of all the airlines we’ve flown, United has the nicest flight attendants. And it’s extra nice when they all tell me, as I’m leaving that they loved my outfit! (Most likely because I was the only female passenger not wearing pj bottoms and flip-flops.
The Arrival in France: Upon arrival, once you leave the plane, the heat hits you. It was hot! A lot hotter than at home! And with a full plane of people exiting to head to customs, it was hotter. Late morning/early afternoon. There were two booths opened. There were two customs agents. T.W.O. One for French/EU citizens and the other for USA and other non-EU countries. In a very generous move, families with small children were guided to the EU agent, which was a godsend for young families. Since I get to piggyback on my husband’s passport, I was also able to go through the EU agent.
Ahhhh…such a pretty sight as we land in Nice!
Since I could not take a picture in customs, the line was three times as bad as this. Two agents. I don’t understand this especially during summer vacation season!
When were got to the front of the line, we witnessed a non-EU passenger, I have no clue as to what kind of passport he had, but there was a big issue and it made me feel so bad for the passengers on the line behind him.
Imagine—a few flights landing at Nice with hundreds upon hundreds of visitors who must wait on a two-hour line. That’s not good for tourism.
After waiting a while for our luggage, and trust me, we were the lucky ones because the majority of people on our flight were still on the customs line, we headed out to get the car rental.
On our way to get that car!
This, my friends, is where the vacation begins. That second, we load up the car with our stuff, get into the vehicle and exit the airport onto A-8, we smile and shout “We’re on vacation!” like two schoolchildren!
Who needs the yellow brick road when you have the blue sign pointing to A-8?
The drive to the apartment is always fun because I love passing the landmarks like the apartment buildings in the shape of a ship, and the highway signs with illustrations and the exit signs. We arrived at the apartment, and upon quick inspection, noticed a new bed but everything else remained the same.
That sameness gives me a feeling of comfort—as though this apartment in Theoule is our second home. I was so happy to see a full bottle of laundry detergent since I do a little laundry every day. I know, I know, I’m on vacation but…I love air drying clothes on the terrace!
This bottle was better than any champagne! Laundry detergent. What a welcome!!!
The terrace is where we spend most of our “home” time. The view of the Mediterranean never gets boring or tired. In fact, waking up to the sea and going to bed by the sea has a calming effect!
Quite remarkably the best view on earth!
Our first line of duty, after unpacking, was to head to Geant Hypermarche to be essentials such as Aperol, Crème de Cassis, Champagne, Cider and..oh yeah, food!
Geant Hypermarche. A magnificent mix of retail and food. I could spend an entire day here!
A vast array of wine and various liquor..
…a remarkable selection of salads…
Ready-made plates of cheese–what a great dinner gift!
I was tempted to try the French Taco kit!
And behold my beloved Socca Chips..
And my Banane Nectar.
After Geant, we headed to Marche Forville for fresh produce and Ernest for my husband’s adored Andouillette.
We bought various tapanades at Forville.
This years tomatoes. I have to say, they looked great but the usual taste wasn’t there. Same with the tomatoes at home. Something is amiss.
A variety of saucisson.
The peonies were the most beautiful I’ve ever seen!
A most crowded market!
Time to head to Ernest!
Andouillette. A sausage of sorts made from stomach lining (tripe) that smells like a cross between a dirty diaper and old socks that have been sitting in a gym locker for four years!
Ahh…dessert!
When we finished the shopping errands, it was that magical time of day—Aperitif time! We enjoyed our drinks on the Terrace followed by a light dinner. And with me freaking out every time a bee decided to visit us. I’m allergic. Luckily the only insect to attack me during the stay was the mosquito. And although we had plug-in mosquito repellent, those little buggers were eating me up like maggots on roadkill. I still have about twenty bites on my body.
Tchin-tchin!
The next day, Sunday, we woke up to gloriously beautiful skies and after coffee and croissant, headed to the pool. A thing about my husband—he refuses to go to the beach on Sunday (and Saturday) in France. He has a point because the beaches are remarkably crowded—even before high season. No parking to be had. Blankets and umbrellas almost touching each other. Lots of heads bobbing up and down in the water.
Instead, we spent the day at the pool. The 2023 pool attendant was exceptionally great this year. He was helpful in getting our umbrellas and always smiling. The regulars swimming their laps and walking the perimeter of the pool, the young families on vacation, couples young and old came to the pool for the same thing—to soak up the sun (while wearing sunscreen), read, check their iPhones, swim, break for lunch, come back and repeat.
Sunday AM. Pool bound. No wig just my hair tied back and in a baseball cap.
9:00 AM and all is very quiet!
And after a day at the pool, come back “home” to shower, refresh, start dinner and gaze at the goings-on in the sea until the sun sets and the sky goes from blue to an array of orange, purple, yellow stripes blending into one another until darkness arrives.
Slumber comes easy with the French doors opened to the terrace, the sounds of cicadas and doves and the sea splashing against the rocks is symphonic enough to lullaby you to sleep.
To be continued…………
Sounds heavenly ….
Oh how wonderful to be back in France. I hope to go again soon, I miss the markets, the cheese, the wine, the desserts!, the bread, the atmosphere. Those lines are horrible, right? About the rudest TSA agents I’ve encountered here were at Boston Logan -I get their job may suck some but hey there’s a lot worse . And the lines at CDG? OMG!! Cinci is my airport, nice, easy to get around, a good deal as Delta does about three non stops a week to Paris. I’m too old or economy unless it’s a short flight, wouldn’t be able to walk for a week. But I haven’t sprung for bidness yet either. I will one day before I die!😂😂. Keep the posts coming I love them! Oh and I do carryon, it’s possible. Although I’ve bought a duffel there to carry stuff back that I’ve bought. Like butter. And cheese. And wine. You get the drift!
Hi Susan, First off, I LOVE the Cinci/KY airport. It’s my favorite!! Don’t even talk to me about Logan’s TSA. Many years back we were diverted to Logan from Paris and Dublin. My husband bought Creme de Cassis at DUTY FREE and TSA at Logan took it away. My husband had to literally drag me away because I was screaming at the TSA agent. I’m surprised I’m not on a special list! My daughter and SIL have checked out the Delta-to-Paris flights! XOXOXOXO
Looks like heaven on earth. Would you ever share where you stay or what rental agency you use? Asking for a friend…
Hi Elizabeth: It’s LaGalere in Theoule-sur-Mer. I can’t link in this comment but head to Google. It’s a gated community and it is fabulous! XOXOXO
Thank you, Catherine. I’ve bookmarked it for future reference.
Ohhhh looks amazing. Last time we went to France, we went Euro-star from St Pancras, the security happened in London and it was infinitely better than flying… sadly as brex**it happened (still cursing), the English husband no longer waltzes off ahead of me down another queue and gets to find the suitcase and hire car. I hold him personally responsible for clogging up the non-European queues with British people (no, he did NOT vote for brex**it but he is the nearest Brit to hand, I resent his presence in MY queue)… Actually I don’t mind security once I touch down in Europe – I’m in Europe so I’m happy as a fat wee clam and can watch people and play guessing games. As for people who travel with loads of carry on – enforce the limit-rules dammit! I particularly find the people travelling with tiny children really irksome -when did the inverse rule of luggage to size of child become the norm? Having flown with tiny children/babies, travel with as little as possible – all you need is stuff to deal with both ends so to speak, a blanky and as little crap as possible. In fact people with children should board LAST so they can run of steam and get as much shrieking out of their tiny lungs as possible (both parents AND children), throw their extra junk in the hold or strap it on top…. why yes I am a grouch but the constant up and down of parents, in and out of overhead lockers and their total nonsense just winds their kids up – do they not spend time with their small children apart from on planes??? I suspect not.
I love a Hypermarche – I would actually travel just for one of those, although Mr Uptight has banned me from stalking people, I LOVE seeing what people are buying so he has forbidden half my fun. A friend and I are heading to Paris in autumn, we are both hoping to lose weight and also THIS time we are going with as little luggage as possible on the way there so we can buy a few wee treats when we on holiday, I mean you can always fit a nice new scarf or a few toiletries right no matter what size you are right???
LOL. Juliet I think we would be fine travel buddies based on our stalking other shoppers to cart-gape! I gave up on weight loss when in France I ate like a garbage disposal and drank like a lush! Families with small children walking around with carry on luggage bigger than they are. The airlines really need to get assertive! XOXOXOXO
I’m with you – I do laundry often when I’m on vacation. However, when I go to France I always bring my own detergent (in the sheet form) because I don’t like the way French detergents are fragranced. Too strong! I also bring my own dryer sheets so my clothes smell like home.
I’ll have to look for the Socca chips when I’m in France in September. Hopefully they are sold up north!
Your trip looks fabulous and I thank you for sharing. I love reading your travel stories as you talk about all of those little details that are so important when traveling.
Finally – yes to dressing up when flying. Your outfit was beautiful (trés quiet luxury).
Thanks Debra, I’m one of those odd ducks who like overly scented detergent! But the best was being able to air dry the clothes on the terrace. My husband thought I was crazy to do wash every day. Fact is, I can’t put dirty clothes in my suitcase! I hope you find those Socca chips too–they are life-changing! XOXOXOX
Newark sounds like a shit show and NCE not much better. TWO agents! That’s the same as NTE and there’s no long haul flights there (well. never seen any) The rest sounds glorious though, I’ve avoided the pool since I had a run in with a little ‘connard’….no parents in sight and intentionally splashing all other bathers. Only two more days here before my long drive home. Looking forward to Part Deux.
Hi Fi! And what is it with parents who cannot control these little connards? At our pool, the water was from 6 to 10 feet. A very young girl around six years who was an expert swimmer kept begging her lazy-ass mother to come into the water with her while the mother did nothing more than look at her phone. Being an asshole is universal! My “pet” name for Newark is “Zoowark”! XOXOXO
I’m guessing that the non-EU person was a Brit. You have no idea how much I hate Brexs_ _ t. There are no words for what it has done to the UK. We’ve just come back from 7 weeks in the other south of France but of course, we are now limited to how many days we can spend in Europe. Enough ranting and I’m looking forward to hearing more about your trip.
Hi June. WHATTTTTTTTTTTTT? You have limited days to spend in EU? Damn! The person surprisingly wasn’t British, he sounded of an Arabic language. Customs was a zoo! XOXOXO
You and me both June.
Living vicariously thru you!
Eleanor, I’m honored to be able to do that! XOXOXO
Hi Catherine- Your trip sounds so fabulous…happy you were able to go this year. Love your description of seeing all your favorite places. I finally got to see Paris in late April…river cruise down the Seine. Paris is so beautiful and since we share a love of handbags…my “souvenir ” was a Polene Handbag from the store in Paris. Every time I look at it I remember our trip. Happy to see your post…as always.
Bonjour Nancy! And thank you. BTW, how do you like the Polene bag? I’m very curious because I think the bags are stunning and could be in the market during out next outing to Paris! XOXOXO
I am very happy with bag I picked…a basic Numero Un in Black. Its perfect for my needs. I use it almost every day. FYI there is now only one Polene store in Paris.
Thank you for sharing your trip. I’ve never been to France. Can’t wait to read more! You look fabulous!
Like Eleanor I’m living vicariously through you. Your write so well! Looking forward to the next instalment!
Thank you so much Bev! I love writing so that is a huge compliment and I thank you! XOXOXO
Hi Bev. Just as I finished my thank you to you, my computer froze so I don’t know if this is a duplicate but I thank you for your most appreciated compliment! XOXOXO
Wow what a great vacation. Checking out supermarkets wherever I go is fun and lets me see the non tourist side of our destination. Love how you have a little routine everyday..even just pool time. Get up have coffee, head to pool, lunch, a little laundry, siesta, cocktails, dinner on terrace..repeat. Sweet!!!
Excited to read your next report!
Hi Al! OMG. I live to go grocery shopping when we are there. I even bought bras and reading glasses–at the hypermarche and those bras are great!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It’s a one-stop process! XOXOXOXO
So interesting to see your travels to France through your eyes, Catherine. Coming to Theoule is like coming home, isn’t it? Such a nice feeling. I feel like that when going to London. I’ve been there more times than I can count. I always return to the same areas, shops and museums, just like you. Oh, and speaking of supermarkets, I always check out the spice section when I’m abroad. There’s always something yummy to discover! And, um, andouillette? Over my dead body!!
I feel for you for the 2 agent border control at Nice airport. Luckily you got through quickly. The other agent de douane was probably on lunch break. 😂.
JFK is dreadful in that respect too. Last time we traveled to NYC we had to wait so long to get through customs that our suitcases were already off the conveyor belt and parked somewhere we had to hunt them down. Hopefully the system has changed somewhat and we won’t have to wait so long this autumn when we fly to NYC.
CDG airport has become better as of late. We have been travelling several times this spring out of that airport and they have multiplied the Parafe booths. It’s a new model, not the one with the fingerprints that never worked, but the facial recognition one. Getting through is a breeze now, for EU travellers at least.
We don’t air travel during the summer, the busiest months of the year, any more. Children have flown the nest and it’s More expensive and too many people. I always check the French school calendar and we avoid travelling during those times. We leave when everyone else is coming back.
I agree with your hubby concerning week-ends at the beach. There are so many more people living in the hinterland of the côté d’azur, due to unbridled construction. People come as far as Lyon with the help of the TGV. Season is Easter to vacances de la Toussaint. Same goes for the pays basque on the Atlantic Ocean. We went last month and there were distinctly more cars on the road starting on Friday, although not main travel season yet.
Concerning the comment above about the British travelling to the EU. Due to Brexit they are treated like the other countries that are allowed into the EU without a visa. 90 days within a period of 180 days. It’s the same period of time EU citizens are allowed to stay in the US. For the time being EU citizens are allowed to stay in the UK for a 6 month period without visa. I hope the EU will extend that courtesy to the Brits. There are so many brits who have second homes in France and who have to chose between the time they spend at their vacation home and visit family and friends in other EU countries.
Thanks for sharing the first part of your journey with us. Waiting for the next…..
Hugs Brigitte
Another Londonphile – we should compare notes on top haunts (Kew, V&A. Chelsea Physic Garden, British Museum and British Library, Tate, Wallace Collection, Ham House, and definitely the Foundling Museum….)
V&A, Check! Tate modern, check! British Museum, check!
National Gallery.
Richmond, the river towpath toward Kingston upon Thames. Preferably with a Wall’s cone in hand. Vanilla flavor to be exact. Without the flake, though! 😂. That’s just not…. chocolate!
Kensington Palace Gardens, the Round Pond. My London sweet spot, especially in summer. But you’ll find me there at any season. Love the trees on Broad Walk leading up from Kensington Rd. Kensington High Street, always something there for me at M&S. Sainsbury and Waitrose on Gloucester Road, spice section, remember? Primrose Hill. Greenwich Park.
Waterstone at Piccadilly, every single trip. Can spend half a day in there. Tend to grab a bite at the cafeteria too.
Love the Barbican. Now the Foundling Museum, that I’ll have to investigate. Haven’t heard of it. Thanks for the recommendation.
Brigitte!! As much as I prefer JFK, the customs is ALWAYS a zoo. There are constant international landings and that means more people to head to customs. The Global entry is the best thing we ever spent money on. We literally walk by the long lines, head to the kiosk walk away, the agent asks “Do you have anything to declare” We answer “No” and he says “Go on”. It’s beautiful.
Vincent was amazed at how crowded the beaches and St. Trop were since it wasn’t quite high season. In fact, Envoye Special had a vignette on Portofino, Italy and the massive crowds. The government is thinking of limiting the amount of tourists.
It was unusually mobbed this year. My take is people are itching to get out after lockdown. Last summer many people were still on the fence about travel but that’s now past! XOXOXOXO
At last the first instalment, and of course worth waiting for. Theoule, almost a year since we were there. No visit this year as we have just moved house and too much to do. Can’t wait to hear more and see lots of pics.
Susan D
Hi Susan, There’s more on the way. I just finished the second post and am going through pics! XOXOX
Oh what a glorious view of the ocean you had! Well deserved after all the airport hassle. I wish we had markets like that over here, they’re amazing, I’d want to try everything! Glad you and your husband had a nice time, thanks for sharing with us!
There’s Nothing like, FINALLY, reaching one’s destination! And, YOUR destination was worth all that airport hassle! The airport sounds like a very chaotic place, STILL. Does one need to carry or show the covid vax papers at US or EU airports now? I noticed in your photo so many people huddled so close in line at the airport and no one is wearing a mask. COVID is still among us. My friend landed in the hospital with it over a week ago. Anyway, am thrilled that part one ended on a high note! Shall go and read part deux!
XXOO
Hi Fran, Nope. You don’t have to show any papers at all. I still keep a photo of all my vax records just in case but…nothing. I also carry a mask in my purse just in case. I had a case of Covid back in December–at Christmas and luckily it wasn’t bad. And from the amount of visitors and tourists when we were in France, I would say that people are now desparate to travel after lockdown! XOXOXO