Before I continue, thank you for your patience.  Since the election, it has been a whirlwind of activity.  Time to grieve because of the reelection, Thanksgiving, work, our great trip back to Paris and Christmas.  Here goes!!!

“The worst part about traveling, is traveling” Catherine Lartigue. November 29, 2024

Yes people. I said that. And I stand by my quote.  Why?  Simply because the worst part of traveling is the traveling itself. The stuff you must go through to reach your destination.  The packing. The lugging.  Getting to the airport. Bag check in. TSA check in.  Waiting to board. Hoping your plane is not delayed or that the gate is not changed.  The crowds gathering to await their group number to board.  The stress of hoping there is room in the overhead bin.  It’s honestly, the worst part.  At least it is Part One of the worst part.

When you arrive at your destination, there is the never-ending line to go through customs. Then waiting for your luggage.  Then, upon arriving to your hotel, depending upon the time you do arrive, you cannot check in until later in the afternoon.  And so, you walk about your destination in dire need of a shower or bath, or at least a swipe or two of deodorant.

Lest I forget to mention the cramped quarters in ecomony!

And then it gets much, much better.  That’s how we started our visit back to the City of Lights at this ending of 2024!  So come along.  Now that we’ve arrived you can read about our week of relaxation and just taking it easy!

Bonjour Paris!

Friday into Saturday, November 30^th to December 1st

Luckily everything fell into place.  We used the same driver, Anton, that we used when we flew to Nice over the summer.  He’s great and it was a smart choice on our part to not have to deal with the stress of airport parking.  I thought traffic would be horrible since we left on Black Friday but the traffic was not bad.  Speaking of Black Friday, the airport was almost empty when we arrived, checking our bags was a breeze and the TSA pre-check was just as quick.  We had a good amount of time to kill before boarding.  I had a book to read and there was no stress.

This book was very enjoyable. He’s got balls to do what he did and succeed!

The plane took off on time and we were on our way to Paris!

My husband does a great job with his planning.  He reserved the last seats on the plane. Which meant there were two seats and plenty of space between the seats and the window.  I had lots of room to place my stuff and overall, the flight was almost comfortable. I watched a movie “Going Varsity in Mariachi” and loved it so much that I watched it a second time. And read. And dozed off a bit and before I knew it, we were ready to land!

If you get the chance to watch it (I think it is on Netflix) by all means do!

In Nice I was able to piggy-back on my husband’s EU passport but could not do so at CDG. It wasn’t a big deal this time around because we must have been the lone flight to land. It took all of five minutes to go through customs.  With my air tag attached to my luggage, I was able to track the location and it landed when we did.  Approximately three minutes after arriving at the baggage claim, we were ready to get a cab into Paris Centre.

Speaking of the cab…we must have gotten a cab driver who was a former LeMans race contestant.  This guy zoomed all the way from the airport in record time. He was legend!!  We arrived at the hotel very early but, again, it was not a big deal because we were able to drop our luggage off and head to breakfast and a day of playing “let’s-stay-awake-before-check-in.”

I kid you not, our cab driver was epic greatness.  He drove like a winning race car driver and we arrived in Paris Centre in less than a half hour.

By now, our “first” breakfast tradition is at Café de Paris on Rue de Buci. Our “regular” server wasn’t there. I hope he didn’t quit!  And we sat down to enjoy our typical “arrival-in-Paris” breakfast of Café Crème, tartine, croissant and enjoyed!

Since it was early, we headed over to St., Sulpice (I was unable to crash Mass this time around) for my routine of lighting candles for thanks that I can travel here and safely.  The candles were also lit for family and friends.  Ever the Catholic-school compliant student, we also headed to Eglise St.-Germain-des-Pres.  The church had undergone a cleaning and looked more beautiful inside than ever—I thought back on Daniele’s funeral when the church was in a state of disrepair.

St. Sulpice welcomed us with Christmas trees. Check out the way the French use the tree trunk as a stand. So sustainable!

I’m not even going to separate the St. Sulpice pics from St. Germain ones because I was jet-lagged.

I wanted to go to Confession because the priest in the confessional looked bored. My husband, however, said the priest didn’t have all day to listen to me.

We walked some more, over to Place Furstemberg to pause and admire this charming square, strolled along lazily (because we were getting tired at this juncture) along Rue Dauphine which, over the years has turned from a classic shopping street into a tourist hallway.  We headed over to Samaritaine Dept. Store.  It was mobbed with people doing their Black Friday shopping on Saturday.

This tour car was parked in the square. Who knew the French were Burnt-orange, University of Texas fans?

My favorite florist on the square!

Walking over toward Samaritaine..

Yes. Black Friday has become a thing in Paris–and this was Saturday!

At this point it was time to head back across Pont Neuf to the hotel to formally check in.  This time around we stayed at Hotel de Buci.  And it won’t be the last time.  We fell in love with this boutique hotel.  Everything about it was perfection.  The staff is incredible…well, I will write more about that later.

Our room at Hotel de Buci.  I’m not going to give full details because this hotel deserves it’s own blog post. It. Was. Incredible!! And the staff?  They were amazing!

As tired as we were, we knew it would be a huge error to take a nap—we would never wake up. So off we went, on foot, to hang in the sixth.   Okay.  My love for Louis Vuitton remains.  I had been in search of the monogram MM Agenda and my favorite sellers from Japan had a few that were not worth the price asked.  It was time to just buy a brand new one for myself (actually, it was time for my husband to buy it—I give credit where it is due). The St. Germain location is never crowded but since it was the day after Black Friday and it seemed all our global visitors and the French were shopping for the holidays; I had to wait outside on a line.  Within five minutes we were greeted inside and received stellar help.  The manager of the store was very impressed with my vintage Randonnée bag that had the vachetta replaced by LV repair.

From the products, holiday packaging and service.  The St. Germain LV shop is an absolute pleasure!

NOTE:  I did NOT bring a protective bag to keep the pickpockets away.  I used my Randonnée—it is large and carries everything but the kitchen sink. Anyone who would even attempt to pick through this bag would deserve what they stole because they would have to rummage through a ton of my stuff.

NOTE 2:  Do not keep checking the weather report.  We were expecting rain almost every day but the reports were wrong. It rained one full day and a half of another.  One of the days I wore only a blazer as outerwear because it was so warm!

Agenda in tow, we realized that we failed to make dinner reservations for the evening meal.  We couldn’t get into La Jacobine but we managed to make resos for later in the week.  My husband had an idea to head to Procope so off we went.   While there a group was turned away for reservations so I shrugged it off that our efforts would be in vain.  They weren’t and we got a 7:30 PM reservation! Lighting those candles at church helped!

Upstairs at Procope!

Might I say a few words about the restaurant Procope?  Many people cannot stand it. They feel the food is inferior and the restaurant is a tourist trap.  Be that as it may, this is a historic restaurant and one of the oldest in France.  Georges Danton, my beloved historical figure, had many meals there as did Voltaire, Benjamin Franklin, Honoré Balzac.   And locals dine there.  My husband had many a family meal there growing up.  The food it fine.  I was angry at the restaurant for deleting rognons (kidneys) from the menu, but they are back and I ordered them and they were spectacular!

A little bit of Olives to accompany our aperitifs, I started with the Ravoli, which I’ve had in the past and love.  Vincent never strays afar from escargot!

I was overjoyed to see kidneys on the menu again and ordered them. They were delicious.  As usual, my husband ordered steak.  Dessert was a refreshing ice cream!

NOTE:  Everyone, especially first-timers think they are a food critic. Pay no mind to them. If you want to head to a historical restaurant that others deem “touristy” go!  And enjoy!

Back to the hotel for a long-needed slumber.

Sunday, December 1^st

 Vincent woke me up.  It was 10:00 AM.  Unlike many tourists who are out and about at seven in the morning, we tend to sleep later at times.  This was one of those times.  Too lazy to leave the hotel to walk a total of two blocks to Café de Paris, we decided to get ready in record time and head downstairs to have breakfast in the hotel.  We ended up having breakfast at the hotel every day from thereon in because the breakfasts were wonderful and convenient.

When I say I got ready in record time, I wasn’t kidding. I threw on mascara, lip balm and hair! 

Most of the guests were already out and about when we arrived for breakfast but it was excellent. Fresh bread.  Fresh croissants (which my husband had many), great coffee and a nice view from the glass roof!

Okay. Before I continue, we realized that visitors to Paris have grown in numbers over the years.  We took it for granted that on this first Sunday of the month the Orsay would not be crowded.  We couldn’t even get in.  Not quite discouraged, we walked over to the Louvre.  We couldn’t get in. It wasn’t a big deal but it was a bit surprising.  Next visit we will get tickets.  Ya live. Ya learn.

The line at the Louvre was worse.  Neither of us believe in spending time on lines such as this.  We opted to walk around.

When you can’t get into the Louvre you do silly things like taking a photo of your bare feet in 40 degree weather..

..and remind yourself that the French still smoke!

All was not lost though because the weather was cold but not unbearably so.  With gloves, a scarf and hat, it was perfect for just walking around.  And walk we did!  We ended up walking over to Galeries Lafayette to check out the Christmas decorations and tree.  I do not know if its because we are getting up there in age or what but the enormous crowd at Galeries Lafayette made me nearly claustrophic.  We ended up buying a cashmere sweater for Vincent then left to head across to Printemps Department Store.  The window displays were magnificent and did not fail to please or make everyone happy.  I hadn’t realized the store sold Le Tanneur bags and one of the brand’s bags was on my Wishlist.  My plan was to purchase a large black tote I admired online.  Suffice it to say, I wasn’t thrilled with it IRL and I ended buying a small cross-body bag which I am now loving.

There are good years for the Galeries Lafayette tree and not-so-good years. This years was okay. It was much better in real life than photos.

The window displays were beautiful and highly animated.  Who knew FAO Schwarz opened at Galeries Lafayette?

Printemps was much more manageable than Galeries Lafayette for shopping.  It was a more subdued crowd…

I purchassed a lovely cross-body bag at Printemps and my husband a cashmere sweater at Galeries Lafayette.

We stopped at Monoprix for a few items then headed back to the hotel.  We walked a lot that day.  And after a rest we headed to Chez Paul on Place Dauphine to meet up with Vincent’s family.  It was so much fun and I did not take pictures because it was a family moment.  Great food.  Great fun. Great family time!

I was able to pick up the mascara by Bourjois that I love.  These sacs at Monoprix are a great little souvenier to give away or keep.  

NOTE: You don’t necessarily have to set aside a day or two for shopping, it can easily be incorporated into your daily outings!

Our aperitifs before family arrived.  Family is private and that’s why I didn’t take pics!

And the weekend was over as we headed back to the hotel to prepare for the week!

A view of Pont Neuf as we walked back from dinner!

Monday, December 2^nd

Headed downstairs to breakfast, then walked a few blocks to get the car rental.  I’ll say that if you are in Paris, and want to rent a car to get out of the city, Sixt car rental is the way to go. The staff is great and very helpful and our Audi was perfect.

Getting the Sixt car rental. This guy!  He was so stinking helpful and nice! We rented from Sixt last year and will do so next year!

We headed to Fontainebleau on this Monday.  Personally, I love this chateau. I prefer it to Versailles—it’s more intimate.  We’ve been multiple times and never get tired of it.  My better half was especially happy because it was not decorated for Christmas.  Yet.

The weather was fantastic. Nice and sunny. Not too cold. Perfect for walking the grounds.  And the drive was extremely pleasant!

I would wear every single one of these outfits.  In fact, if I could get away with it, I would treat myself to Napoleon’s coat.  It’s just my style!

Today’s Influencers could NEVER match this decor!  This is the real deal and is absolutely stunning.  I’m especially fond of the throne!

We practically had the place to ourselves which is a pleasure compared to the throngs of people taking selfies at the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles!

I don’t think Francois Premier realized what a valuable piece of real estate he built!

The afternoon lighting in the courtyard was everything!

The look when you realize this chateau is yours.  LOL! In my dreams!

Goodbye chateau. Thank you for having us!

A relaxing drive back to Paris Centre to park the car at the lot at Marche St. Germain and a bit of rest before heading out to dinner at La Bourse et la Vie.  This was our first time dining here at the recommendation of a “Les Frenchies” video.  Oh.  My.  God.   This meal was one of the greatest I have ever had in my life.  My phone’s camera got wonky so I couldn’t take a lot of photos.  That said, the restaurant is small.  Very small and reservations are recommended.

Ready for dinner.  I took a very casual approach to dressing during this trip. Jeans and black pants. No socks!

The staff is so incredibly professional and knowledgeable and the food was off—the-charts stupendous.   I started with foie gras and confiture which was excellent and we both had steak.  Mine always bleu.  The meal was that meal you remember long after you’ve dined and we will definitely be back next year!

The staff was extremely professional and very attentive to detail..

We had kir royals made with creme de peche and I will tell you–this was better than a kir royal!

I started with foie gras with confiture. It was outstanding..

Steak..(au poivre)

Frites. Simple perfection..

Dessert..

Wine that was emptied by us in no time!

This is definitely a “return to”. It was crazy great!

Tuesday, December 3

Another drive outside of Paris Centre! This time to Blandy le Tours to Chateau de Blandy.  In the past, we have passed by this chateau but it was never open.  I “read” on Google that it was open beginning at 1 PM for tours.  But I didn’t look at the days it was closed.  So off we went on our adventure only to discover that……………..the Chateau was closed.

Closed. I must have read Google wrong! No worries because we diverted our road trip!

It isn’t every day we get to drive on a road like this..

We headed to visit Evie’s grave. I am always charmed by this tiny chapel at the cemetary.

There’s a lot of history in this place!

We passed by this little community room named after my husband’s uncle.

For us it wasn’t a big deal because we drove to Saint-Hilarion to visit Vincent’s mother, Evie’s grave and drive around.  Heading back to Paris, it was a chance to enjoy the city by car and take an “eyeful” of pics of the Eiffle Tower!

An eyefull of the Eiffel!

As it was a lazy day, we headed to Café de Paris for dinner.  Once again, as last year’s visit, I had the greatest burger of my life.  Vincent had his usual Steak Frites.

Here’s a better photo of the best burger on earth. Juicy. Cheddary. Bleu.  I want more!

NOTE: You know, I see such incredibly aggressive itineraries of people visiting Paris and the one thing I find daunting is that they squeeze so many sites in and run around from here to there quickly and they have no time to savor the City of Lights.  My advice is take your time.  Enjoy every second.  Just chill.  And with that, I say Bonne Nuit!

 Wednesday, December 4^th

 I can’t believe it’s Wednesday already!  Time is going way too fast.  I woke up with a bit of an oncoming cold.  It could be from my great idea of taking a barefoot pic of me on Sunday.  Before we got the car, I stopped at a pharmacie to see if I could get something.  Those pharmacists are like doctors.  I was handed a pack of pastilles to sooth my throat that happened to work like a charm and we were off.

I should have bought more of these!

This time to Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte.  My favorite place of all things decorated for Christmas.  And this year it did not disappoint.  The theme was various children’s stories and I was there for it.  Much to the dismay of my husband; however, he ended up enjoying the decorations much more than last year’s.

It was a foggy day as we headed to Vaux le Vicomte.  But it set the mood!

The mood was set for hundreds of years back..

..into history..

..a wooden soldier greeted us..

..as we made our way to the carriage house

Our driver is ready.

And our coach is embellished with white holiday lights!

This year’s theme–childhood stories and fairy tales.  Here is Snow White’s tree and the table is set for the seven dwarfs!

Mice creating Cinderella’s attire.

Two of the three bears await Goldilocks.

I was thrilled to see an homage to The Princess and the Pea. It’s special for me because I always told Oona she was like the princess in that story!

The pea-green is beautiful..

And here lies our beautiful princess with a bag of peas underneath the matresses!

The Red Riding Hood tree!  I took a video but was unable to transfer it over to here!

An artistically beautiful Nativity.

For additional fun, we drove a few miles to Blandy thinking that perhaps we could get in to see the chateau.  After all, we had the car and ..why not?  Strike two.  It was closed. We drove back to Paris Centre laughing about our second failed attempt to visit Chateau Blandy le Tour.

Meanwhile, back at Blandy le Tour..

..something is brewing because the trees are at the ready.

..and perhaps a small Christmas market?  Who knows because it was closed. Again! 

Dinner this evening?  Chez Rene! Wednesday was andouillette night and my husband was all about it—especially since Ernest in Cannes closed and he was unable to enjoy the “old-gym-socks-scented” treat.  Again, I savored over the Rognons!

Back at Chez Rene

It is so wonderfully old school Parisian.

Greeted with this cream-cheese type dip for bread.

I started out with the bone marrow. Honestly, I would make a great Labrador Retriever because I would even eat the bones.  I fear what my innards look like.  Bone Marrow is delicious!

Vincent started out with a healthier plate of Frog’s legs.

I just cannot pass the Rognons at Chez Rene up. They are “offally” delicious!

And my husband had his fix of Andouillette..

The frites were perfect!

As was the wine. It was additional medicine for my throat!

And back to the hotel for a night of peaceful slumber!

A pleasant evening for sure.

Okay. I’m stopping here because I don’t want to lose your interest.  Part Two will be upon us this week so stay tuned!