Paris–2024 Part Two–Wait! Now That Visit of Last Month is Last Year!

Amazing how in a few days, our December visit to Paris is now last year!

Happy 2025 to everyone.  Another year of the blog and at year’s end it will be ten years ago I started this baby.  LOL—not much growth, but I love our small circle of friends. I feel like I am writing for family!  It is my blog family and all the best for this new year!

Back to the trip…We left off on Wednesday, December 4th….

Thursday, December 5, 2024

The time spent here just flies by way too quickly.  The good thing is when we arrive home, it’ll be time to dive into baking and preparing food ahead of time for Christmas and knowing my boys will be arriving!

Today is a normal lazy-but-not-lazy day for us. We have the car so we’ll head to the Cimetière in Montparnasse to visit Danièle, Yves, and my husband’s cousin, Zazi.  It is a calm place, this cemetery, with a blend of new Head stones mixed with historical and, at times, decaying structures to mark those who have left us.

Autumn leaves surrounding the grave of Vincent’s aunt, Daniele and her husband Yves.

There is a ton of history in the cemetery..

…and we head out to explore Paris by car.

I did a bit of tidying up, we stayed for a while and spoke of fond memories then we were off again. This time to Rue de Rennes for a bit of shopping. We parked the car at the usual garage (I’ll be covering that in another post), and headed over to FNAC so Vincent could buy some novels in the French language.  Then we stopped at Sophie Sacs.

FNAC is such a great store and there are many throughout France. It’s Best Buy on steroids but with books and journals and all sorts of great items!

Let me tell you about Sophie Sacs in case you hadn’t read past posts of mine.  I didn’t discover this mecca of leather bags and accessories.  My friend, Barbie Snitzer, recommended this shop years ago and I have been going ever since.  If you are planning to head to Paris any time sooner or later, and you are not into luxury or designer bags, you must head to this shop.

The fact Sophie Sacs has been at this location for years is proof that not everyone wants a luxury bag. I have quite a few bags from this shop and it is always a pleasure to head here.  The owner is so nice!

The owner is such a nice man and he always has a smile on his face.  This time around I treated myself to a brown leather crossbody bag. At €45 it was a great price and it is a beautiful bag that holds quite a bit.

This brown cross-body bag is perfect for running errands and holds quite a bit!

After getting back in the car, we decided to drive around.  I know this may sound odd to some, but my husband loves driving in Paris.  It is where he grew up from childhood into adulthood.  He loves Paris.  It makes him happy to return.   It is a perfect way to view the City in it’s everyday situations. We even drove to the street named after my husband’s grandfather.

I always get a kick out of seeing this street sign. It’s so cute!

With the car now parked for the remainder of the day, we walked around the sixth arrondissement as a form of exercise. We headed into Eglise St. Germain des pres again because I wanted to light more candles.  Stopped into a religious shop to purchase rosaries for both my sisters and sister-in-law and headed back to the hotel to relax before heading to Allard for dinner.

The rosaries were packaged nicely.  As soon as I arrived home, they were sent off!

In Paris, one cannot visit enough churches. I lit a lot of candles!

Forget “Where’s Waldo”–Can you spot the Eiffel?

Allard remains one of our favorite restaurants in Paris.  It is old-school and elegant; a step back in time.  And, naturally, the food is always excellent.  The perfect end to another fun day.

Somem shots of the interior.  It’s very elegant and old-school.  

Vincent started out with the Frogs legs and I had the lentil veloute with duck foie gras. My veloute was excellent.  As usual, my husband loved the frog’s legs.

My choice of main plate was the sweetbreads. I had the same during our 2023 visit. So very delicious!

While he had the seared beef with peppered sauce. 

The wine was excellent..

…as was dessert.  Floating Island and some kind of ice cream. 

A brisk walk around the corner to the hotel and it was back for a good night’s sleep!

Friday, December 6th, 2024

As our visit winds down, today is a busy one. Actually, this is the most ambitious day we’ve had in Paris in years!  Vincent did manage to get tickets in advance for the Opera Garnier.  In all the years I’ve been to Paris, I had never been here and it certainly did not disappoint.  The building is gorgeous.  It is that place where you can stand still and visualize patrons of the opera and ballet during the Belle Epoque era dressed in their evening finery out for a night of entertainment and to be seen.

Although we had tickets, we did wait a few minutes on a line and once we entered, I was mesmerized at how beautiful the Opera Garnier was..

It was nice to see such well-behaved children on a field trip. It’s also wonderful to see that France really allows children to be exposed to all things cultural. 

I want this flooring in my house.

Because of the lighting and my outdated iPhone, it was difficult to take photos..

The stairway is magnificent

This is my jam. The costumes. It was such a great surprise to see. These are from Giselle!  Aren’t they beautiful?

And more costumes!

I could have stayed all day here but we had things to do and places to see. Off we go…

I look like a million bucks in my cheap Temu coat!  Off we go!

We headed back to Printemps and Galeries Lafayette for  VAT tax refunds.  The process was easy and I am not going to go into detail on this post because it is a long description.  I will broach this subject in my next blog post. And yes, you can get an immediate refund at stores.  To be continued.

Leaving Printemps after receiving our VAT tax. I have a lot to tell you about that but I’ll explain more in the next blog post!

We headed back to the hotel to drop off items that we purchased and to change because the weather took a change for the warmer!

How warm was it?  I got rid of the coat and wore a blazer!  

We walked over to yet another church: St. Germain l’Auxerrois. The church was built in the 13th century, making it older than me.  Seriously, I have spent so much time in churches during this trip that I started to grow wings and a halo formed around my head!

The Church was beautiful and it gave me another opportunity to light candles.

With this being a very busy day, we headed to the Bourse de Commence housing the Pinault Collection.  The building is beautiful. Subjectively, the “collection” is questionable in my strong opinion.  I love art.  Modern art, up to a point.  Some of this was just not art and I will let you decide for yourself.

 

Sorry not sorry but I can’t call this great art.

I did find this interesting and liked it though.

The Bourse is a beautiful building though.

With the day buzzing by, we hailed a cab and headed over to the Pantheon.  I had been there years ago and wanted a refresher.  It did not fail to please and I got to see the crypt of Alexandre Dumas, my favorite author.

I LOVE the Pantheon.  From Foucault’s Penddulum, which is completely mesmerizing to the beautiful sculptures to the infamous crypts. It’s a must-visit and I am glad we returned!

My favorite author of all time–Alexandre Dumas.  I thanked him for his great novels!

The afternoon sun was fading into twilight as we made our way back to the hotel to enjoy an aperitif or two before heading out to dinner.  Tonight, it is dinner at La Jacobine.  Okay. I have a little backstory about La Jacobine.  It was recommended on a video by Les Frenchies (a husband and wife who live in Paris).  We had been to other restaurants they have recommended and had wonderful meals.  I wanted to go here.  My husband was not looking forward to dining here because steak frites was not on the menu. Hey—bone marrow and kidneys weren’t either but I didn’t care. I just wanted to have dinner here.   It is a small place.  Reservations are needed.

Let’s say I am no Jacques-Henri Lartigue when it comes to photography.  La Jacobine is so charming. This tiny restaurant is housed in a passage at the end of Rue St. Andre des Arts.  Reservations are a must!

We were led to our table (which my husband loved) and proceeded to order.   He was, however, happy to see escargot as a starter.  He ordered it and enjoyed every little snail.  I had the foie gras mille-feuille with fig jam.  Allow me to say this is one of the top three entrees I have ever had in my life.

The foie gras mille-feuille with fig jam was, hands down, one of the best entrees I have ever had.

Vincent loved his escargots!

We both had tagines.   Duck tagine for me and Chicken tagine for him.  Both were off-the-charts incredible.  I was thrilled because the stress I had to go through thinking if Vincent didn’t like the meal, I would never hear the end of it.  Suffice it to say, La Jacobine was such a success that we will be back and have since been recommending it!

Our tagines were incredibly delicious.  As you can see, we ate with gusto!

We had an inexpensive bottle of wine and it was really, really good!

Wait! This ambitious day was not over.  We walked over to Notre Dame. We were not aware that our trip to Paris would occur during the reopening of the cathedral. It was impossible to get close to the structure but it was fun.  The crowd was in a good mood and I was able to get decent photos of the church.  Too bad I could not gain entrance to light a few candles.

Although you couldn’t get close, Notre Dame was beautifully illuminated.

Nothing like a selfie in front of Notre Dame after lots of wine.

Place St. Michel on the way back to the hotel.

Back to the hotel for a well-deserved sleep.

Saturday, September 7th, 2024

Our last day. As soon as we woke up, I packed everything.  I cannot pack at the last minute.  We headed down to breakfast to enjoy our last breakfast then, in the rain, walked over to get the car.

Our last breakfast.  I ate so much smoked salmon I started to grow fins and scales.  Seriously, Hotel Buci had a great breakfast spread!

We drove to Musee Marmottan. The former home of Paul Marmottan, this museum houses a large collection of paintings by Monet.The biggest surprise was the exhibition of Trompe-L’œil from 1520 to the present.  It was absolutely mind-boggling!

My man Monet.  THIS museum is another must-see. I cannot believe in all the years I have been going to Paris, this was my first time here!

 

Beautiful pantings..

A couple of Monet family photos.  His daughter was gorgeous!

The Trompe l’oiel exhibit was fantastic. I could have spent hours here!

Back to the car and to sunshine.  We decided to take a last drive through the city.

Back outside and happy.  This was the only day I wore a good amount of makeup.  

Why aren’t Christmas trees in the USA sold with built-in stands the way they are in France?

A festive Eiffel Tower outside a restaurant.

Dior never looked more beautiful!

All of Paris had a touch of holiday embellishment!

And as we started to enter the area around the 6th arrondissement, streets were blocked off because it was…………the reopening of Notre Dame and Donald Trump arrived.  I swear to God that sub-human is a hemorrhoid up my…………. I will not say anything else.

I must say, though, that the Parisien police are in great shape!

It was quite the spectacle.  Police officers everywhere.  Roads and streets blocked and cut off to traffic.  Luckily, Vincent knows every street in Paris as was able to get us back to where we needed to be.

Pont Neuf was blocked off from traffic..

Crowds all over the 6th.

Due to the outpouring of people to visit Notre Dame, or to catch a glimpse, it was a sea of humanity all through the sixth. And police officers.  And police vans. As we walked from the hotel to the restaurant for our last dinner of this trip, it was quite the sight.

I was tempted to ask an officer if he could drive me to Samaritaine Dept. Store.  My husband was not amused.

In 2023, our « last » dinner of the trip was at Chez Fernand Christine. We decided to make this a tradition with being our last dinner of this year’s trip. The restaurant is charming.  Small.  The staff is the best.  I started out with bone marrow and then with kidneys.  Vincent had his escargots and steak frites.  We were both very pleased. We ate everything and even made room for a Creme Brulee to share.  And then it was back to the hotel.

Basically a repeat of the meal we had in 2023.  For him, escargot (again) for me, bone marrow (again)

I swear we are predictable diners.  For him, steak frites.  For me, kidneys–I just can’t get enough of them!

More wine..

And a pleasant server who understood my feelings toward the LOUD Americans at the table across from us!

Sunday, December, 2024

Our flight was at one in the afternoon, but we left very early to anticipate weekend traffic and crowds at the airport. CDG is not the best airport to navigate and the crowds can be horrific at times.  And wouldn’t you know, early on this Sunday morning, there was an accident on the way to the airport and traffic crawled for quite some time.  This is specifically why getting an earlier start to any airport is necessary.

One last glimpse at the flowers in the lobby of Hotel Buci that were changed every day.

Surprisingly, the airport was not crowded when we arrived.  We made our way down to the VAT kiosk (not all stores have instant VAT refunds. I’ll write about that in the next post) and the process was easy-peasy.   Checking the baggage was quick.  TSA was quick.  Customs was quick.  It was a 1,2,3 experience—which is not the norm.

Duty-free was all decked out for the holiday season.

With some time to kill before heading to the gate, we did some duty-free shopping. This is a great way to get rid of extra euros.

How can anyone not resist this?

With light rain and no delays, we were off. And back home!  Just. Like. That.

Ready to Board!

And just like that–our week is over!

Thank you for reading about our trip!  Hope you enjoyed and Happy New Year!

 

About Catherine

Far from perfect, but enjoying life as a non-perfect and flawed individual at 60 years young. I'm still wondering what I'll be when I grow up! The characters in my life's screenplay include my better half. He is a refined Frenchman who grew up in Paris and summered in St. Tropez. I grew up in Long Island and summered in Long Island. I am not refined. My three grown children are also a big part of my life. For their sake, they happily live where their careers have taken them! But I can still mother them from a distance! I write about the mundane. I write about deeply shallow issues. But whatever I write or muse about--it'll always be a bit on the humorous and positive side! It's all good!
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33 Responses to Paris–2024 Part Two–Wait! Now That Visit of Last Month is Last Year!

  1. Eleanor Ford says:

    One of my favorite articles you’ve written! And remind me of what your loafers are? I know you’ve explained before!!

  2. Sharon Daly says:

    Thanks so much for the restaurant and museum reviews. Haven’t been to Paris in a long time, but perhaps one more trip?

    • Catherine says:

      Hi Sharon! Definitely go again. As of January 20th, I am on a self-imposed “No Buy” due to the tariffs. I selflessly want our ecomomy to tank as just desserts to those who voted for him and those who didn’t vote at all. We have every materialistic item we need and then some. I imagine my savings will be substantial!

  3. Barb V says:

    Thoroughly enjoyed your Paris 2024 visit daily activities. I feel as if I have just been there along with you.

  4. Vava says:

    What a marvelous trip!!! Really enjoyed reading about it. Too bad that blight on humanity had to show his orange face, but luckily you didn’t have to see him. The food, the cemetery, the City —- all fantastic! Just like YOU!

    • Catherine says:

      Vava. When I found out he was there, I damn near had a hissy fit–just like him! He is so vile. I cannot believe people voted for him again. Oh. Wait. I can. My MAGA sisters love him.

  5. I always enjoy your posts but particularly ones in which your travels to France are involved. Love the restaurant descriptions and photos. And the wine! Thanks for sharing!

    • Catherine says:

      Teresa. The wine. I never get a hangover nor do I get a puffy face or headache from the wine in France. I cannot drink wine here in the States because it gives me Gerd and a puffy face!

  6. juliet brown says:

    Oh it sounds so good and all that lovely food – just I am about to hit the weight loss with a neighbour along the road 🙂 So many interesting tips and ideas for next time we visit Paris, I just love their churches and museums which are always amazing – as are their cemeteries – there is something about a Paris cemetery, they are absolutely fascinating. You definitely need to be our team tour guide – this year dont go without us!!!!

    • Catherine says:

      Hi Juliet! Maybe I’ll see you next December or November!!!!!!!!!!! I just today found out my BFF’s son is getting married in July. Back to Weight Watchers it is-LOL!

  7. Susan says:

    Oh how fun! And you went to three of my favorite places-Opera, Marmottan, and Chez Fernand Christine! Plus all the shopping of course! I was there in July, before the Olympics, for maybe the fifth time? I do envy your driving around Paris, tho. I don’t think I want to try! We were driven around in a little Citroen, which was quite fun. I love Paris…and I cannot wait to go back.

    • Catherine says:

      Hi Susan. I’ll tell you–driving around Paris is so much fun. You see little bits and pieces that you wouldn’t normally see and you get a glimpse of everyday life! I can’t wait to get back either!

  8. Fiona says:

    If I ever get to Paris again, I’ll definitely be going to Sophie Sacs & City Pharma. I’d really like to go to the catacombs too, amongst other places.
    I did smile when I heard that Trump was there at the same time as you.
    Désolée Paris but I think your modern art is shite.
    Glad you had such a great time.

    • Catherine says:

      Hi Fiona! Yeah. Sophie Sacs is a treasure trove as is City Pharma but I’ll be writing about both in my next blog post. City Pharma is great but not all the stuff sold there is. Ugh. Just my luck that filthy thing was in Paris when I was….

  9. Donna says:

    Catherine, I love reading about your Paris adventures! We have been to Paris a few times, and are planning a return trip in 2026 (visiting Portugal this year). The Musee Marmottan is one of my favorites…we visited it on our very first trip to Paris, back in Nov 2000, and were there for our first wedding anniversary! My husband was blown away by Monet’s works there. Thanks for sharing!

    • Catherine says:

      Hi Donna! You are most welcome. The funny thing is, in all the years that we’ve been going to Paris, this was the first time for me at the Marmottan. When I asked my husband why he didn’t mention going there previously my response was a French Shrug! LOL!

  10. Susan says:

    You should think about doing a girls tour of Paris. I would be the first one to sign up!!!!!

  11. Denise says:

    Loved your recap! Went to both Allard and Chez Fernand Christine at your suggestion and they could not have been more wonderful – in spite of us showing up on the wrong night at Allard! Don’t let anyone say the French are not gracious!

  12. Debra says:

    I love reading about your trip to Paris. I love the details and descriptions. It makes me feel I’m a part of your trip . I love Paris. There is so much to see and do. I so glad you were able to make the trip and enjoy it. Thanks so much for sharing.
    The photos are beautiful.

    • Catherine says:

      You’re welcome Debra. It’s incredible at how there is always something new to do while there. My goal next time is to get tickets to the Serge Gainsbourg maison. Two years and I still was unable to do so.

  13. Momcat says:

    Always love your posts from France but especially the Paris posts…was it naughty of me to nearly spit out my red wine when I read the little blurb you wrote about M.Trump hahaha! Hilarious. Your photos are great too.
    I also agree that you should do a ‘girls tour de Paris’ …if Vincent does the driving of the tour bus!!!!
    Best wishes for a Happy New Year, it will be a challenge for many but as one blogger wrote ‘I’m just going to stay in my corner living my best life.’ That might be the best revenge…

    • Catherine says:

      Hi Al, I am also going to stay in my own corner living as best a life as I can during the next four years. Perhaps I should start thinking about a “girl’s tour of Paris”!!!

  14. marsha57 says:

    Sign me up for the Girls’ Tour…seriously! I will go, and I will be good and even try…well, one of the delicacies you love. I tried haggis in Scotland, and it didn’t kill me. I am always so thrilled to read your travel posts, and this was a wonderful one even if that orange monster had to spoil it for you (and probably lots of French people). I do love to visit churches and cathedrals. They are like little oasis (oases) of calm when you’re traveling. They also help to ground me. And, how lucky were you to be there when they lit up Notre Dame. I’m so glad the damage wasn’t worse. It looked horrific at the time.

    Have a wonderful new year!

    • Catherine says:

      Happy New Year Marsha. My only solace is to be able to say “I told you so” to all those who voted for that thing. My popcorn is at the ready as I watch his cult start crying when their Social Security is cut off. I will just stay in my own little corner and work towards the mid-terms!

  15. Sandra sallin says:

    Always such a delight to read about your trips. What do kidneys taste like? Liver? I’m so glad you get so much pleasure from these trips.

  16. nathalie says:

    Bravo pour ce post encore une fois ! et je suis d’accord pour l’art moderne 😢, parfois !!! dommage pour la présence de Orange Monster ! Very happy new year !!! amitiés , Nathalie

  17. Jane says:

    Traveling to paris certainly agrees with you. You looked beautiful in all the shots. The food looked yummy and of course Paris magnifique

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