Au Revoir Jusqu’à la Prochaine Fois. Goodbye Until Next Time

 Saturday, July 2, 2016

3:30 in the morning and the alarm went off but I didn’t even need it.  There is something remarkably annoying about having to wake up before dawn and get ready for your departure home from a wonderful trip.

You are so tired and running on adrenaline to get to the airport that you can’t focus on the great time you are leaving behind.

Theoule. Apartment. DEPARTURE BLOG GOLD. Leaving for home at 4 AM

All my clothing is crammed into the Longchamp bag. All the other stuff  like towels and whatever isn’t clothing is in that big, fugly peachy/pink suitcase.  I’m delighted at how filthy that suitcase got while being handled by American Airlines. Nobody will ever steal anything from it. EVER!

This is so disgusting-but after a bath and not washing my makeup from last night off, I’m ready to get dressed for the flights home. My hair is piled atop my head like a bird’s nest and I’m going to wear shorts, a tee shirt and my old Rondini sandals.

Bonaparte and I are quiet because we are saddened and in no particular hurry to leave, but we need to be on time for the flight.

I take one last look around the apartment that has become our second home.  It is silent. The cicadas aren’t chanting. The frogs in their baritone voices aren’t harmonizing. Even the sea is silent. Could they be just as sad that we are leaving them?

Bonaparte closes the doors to the terrace ending our 2016 visit.

We walk to the car in the darkness of the early morning. A rush of emptiness fills my body because I am reminded of the last time we left France early and in darkness—the weekend of Danièle’s funeral.

Paris. Monday. October 26. On the way to CDG. I miss you

This is how dark it was when we last left Paris in October. It was just as dark when we left Theoule.

The stress of departure is prevalent as we arrive to return the car to Hertz. A locked gate is stopping us from returning the automobile. I get out of the car to see a sign that reads nobody will be at the rental return before 6:00 in the morning.

It is 4:45 AM.  But all is not lost as I also see instructions to drive the car closer to the gate to activate the sensor that will open the mass of iron in order to allow us to return this vehicle.

Others who arrived before us and who didn’t see this sign are pulled over to the side. I’m sure they are now thrilled.

We unload the car, still in silence, drop the keys in a box and head off to the terminal.

This is why you get to the airport in plenty of time. We met with a mad crowd of students who were on their way to Spain. Hundreds of them.

By the time we checked in and passed through security it was about 6:30 AM. We were able to enjoy a bit of breakfast at the terminal and rest up for about 40 minutes before boarding our flight to Paris.

NIce airport

Daylight!  And we are awaiting our departure.

From the plane. Departing nice for Paris

Off we go to head to Paris for a small layover before heading home.

Arriving in Paris was another story. CDG airport was a shit show. I’m not kidding, I cannot understand how an airport as heavily trafficked as this one was such a train wreck.  The place is so friggin’ disorganized that my blood pressure is rising as I’m typing this.

The good news is that our flight from Nice departed on time and landed in Paris a bit early.

The frustrating news is that we had to wait on a line to check in for over an hour. Then it took another hour to get through customs and another 30 minutes to get through security.

Airport. CDG. Crowd 2

Crazy time at the airport. The crowds were completely stopped by security here. Ten minutes later we were on our way..

Hollande better start making sure that this airport not only hires more staff, but better make sure it happens soon.  Now that the UK is no longer part of the EU, the Brits are going to take up unwanted space at customs. And the lines will be longer!  I don’t like that!

Airport. CDG. Lines. Look at that french braid. I was obsessed with this woman's look.

…and more lines.  Ugh. It took forever. You wanna know what made the time fly by?  Take a look at the woman on the far left. What a head of hair. I was fascinated by her braid and the color of her hair. She had the GOOD gray! 

A bit later and a bit calmer, we were at the terminal in time for some duty-free shopping.  All I wanted to get was a refill of my winter scent: Guerlain’s La Petite Robe Noire. I did. And I also picked up a couple of food magazines. It’s fun to translate the recipes and incorporate them into our meals.

Shopping. My two scents worth. Fleur d'oranger and la petit robe noir.

Sorry. I snapped this pic at home. I was too stressed to take any more photos at the airport. But I picked up La Petit Robe Noire for a great price. It’s funny but the first time I ever smelled that scent was at the airport–Orly on the way to Nice!

Shopping. Food Magazines with Recipes. BLOG GOLD.

Simple pleasures for a simple woman. I LOVE buying these French food magazines and then translating them. Believe me, this is a great way to learn how to cook authentic French meals–right down to the measurements!

At the gate, which was more like a cattle ranch, we were advised of a gate change.  Once again, the disorganization was epic as the staff of American Airlines attempted to have us board the flight.

cows out to pasture

Although I took this photo years ago in Burgundy, American Airlines treated us just like cows on a ranch. Actually, these pretty girls were treated better…

Don’t even get me started on American Airlines.  Once again, we had to take a bus to the plane because the plane was NOT at the gate. I swear I need to write a letter to American Airlines because I want a refund of at least ten percent of our airfare for charging ridiculously expensive prices for air travel and then making us take a bus to the plane.

From the plane. Departing for home

On our way back to Philly…

From the plane. Departing for home 2

Can we turn around please???

And so as I become ensconced in my little area of the plane, I start to think about our trip and what I will miss. It’s the small and mundane I’ll miss the most.

I’ll miss that feeling of euphoria as we leave Nice airport and head to the apartment!

I will miss our breakfasts on the terrace and I miss drinking coffee from a bowl.

breakfast on the terrace

I had to reach into my shutterfly account for this pic. But I do miss these breakfasts at the start of the day. 

I’ll miss watching daylight turn into twilight as we begin our meal and I’ll miss twilight that has turned into darkness with a bit of moon glow as we end those lazy and long meals.

food on the terrace

I miss our gluttonous meals that start with Kir Royals and Breton chips and pate’s……

Theoule. Apartment moonlight path on the water GOLD

That’s right. Our dinners go from daylight to this.

I will miss that comforting feeling of sleeping with the doors to the terrace wide open and being put to sleep by the symphony of frogs, cicadas, and the sounds of the rhythm of the sea’s little waves against the rocks.

I’ll miss these sounds combined with..

…the sound of the Mediterranean sea at night. Puts me right to sleep!

I’ll miss going to the pool in the morning and being greeted by Nathalie and Laurent,  the couple who run the little shop L’epicerie, at pool’s entrance.  Bonaparte stops there early each day for his croissant. We also get the local gossip which makes me feel as though I’m a part of the community!

Theoule My Favorite Epecerie Owners!

Laurent and Nathalie are ALWAYS this happy and pleasant. I will miss them. A lot!

Theoule. La Galere. L'Epecerie near the pool

And here’s their little shop by…

pool

the pool!!!!

I’ll miss our daily trips to Geant hypermarche. Oh yes I will. The simple act of picking out groceries in this wonderland of delightful packaging and epicurean surprises never ceases to amaze me.  The cheeses alone bring me into a state of euphoria.

Theoule. Geant. Cheese Heaven! Theoule. Geant. Cicada and other provencial goodies!

Oh, those cheeses. And look at this homage to the cicadas. I’m SO angry at myself for NOT buying one of those ceramic cicadas.  Those cicadas are better than any designer bag! You push a button and the cicada makes sounds! I can’t even…

Cote d' Azur. Geant. Lines on a Friday.

Friday at Geant. Hey. I’ll even miss those weird carts that are nearly impossible to steer!

I’ll miss the thrill that I get when we drive into Cannes, park the car in the lot at Marche Forville and finish our errands within the hour of gratuity.  I love that!

Cannes. Interparking ticket at Marche Forville. Free the first hour.

Look!  0,00 Euros!!  I LOVE THIS!  A free hour of parking. Makes me want to leave then come directly back and do it again! And again! And again!!!!!!

I’ll miss the view of the bay that we see every time we drive from Theoule down along the coast.

Theoule. Back at L'Aguille More boats

Boats in the bay..

view of the bay

..and closer views as we drive downhill toward the coastline.

I’ll miss the feeling of the cool water of the Mediterranean against my toes as I enter the water and I’ll miss being able to swim out what seems like forever and still not get my hair wet.

L'estagnol. My feet in the crystal clear water

There is nothing like salt water and sand touching your feet and toes…

Beach Pic from Var

..another great view of the clear water.

my favorite boat in antibes

One of my favorite boats that has been docked in Antibes for a couple of years. Who doesn’t love a boat christened with the name “Rehab”?  I didn’t see it this year. I’m guessing it checked into….

I’ll miss our trips into St. Tropez to have fun with Dany.

St. Trop. Dany Lartigue and me.  Oh lala

See how much fun I have with Dany!!

I’ll miss the way the salty, briny water hits my cheeks and nose while taking the Bateaux Verts from Ste. Maxime to St. Trop and back again.

St. Tropez. En ROute. Hey Yacht. Outta our way!

On the Bateaux Verts

I’ll miss my daily dose of Nostalgie Radio—93.5 on the dial, and listening to my favorite French pop stars serenading to me as we drive throughout the Riviera.

nostalgie

93.5 on the dial and..

The familiar jingle. It never changes!

I’ll miss waking up to the greatest view.

Theoule. View from the terrace with awning

Yup. Every day this is what greets us!

I’ll miss the smell of Rondini Atelier—the scent of leather is so strong and reminds me of an old-school shoe maker.

Shopping St. Tropez Rondini a peek into the studio

I can still smell the leather!

Shopping St. Tropez Rondini store hours BLOG GOLD

Perhaps next summer, I’ll purchase a tote instead of sandals!

I’ll miss the sights and sounds of the Marche Forville and all the activity and the organic beauty of the offerings.

Cannes. Marche forville sign

My favorite marche..

Cannes. Marche Forville. The tapanade and olive guys. They are fun!  GOLD

…and the friendly Frenchmen selling olives and tapenade!

I’ll miss the way that our daily routine is ever-changing while remaining the same. Mornings at the pool and then lazily heading off to see whatever sights we feel like going to.

Thoronet. Better courtyard view

..one day and abbaye…

Cabris. Winding street

..the next day, a village. It’s all whatever you feel like doing!

I’ll miss the friendly locals.  I’ll miss the wonderful service we receive when we are at restaurants or boutiques.

Damn. I’ll just about miss everything!

cannes beach

I even miss beaches that are not L’estagnol!  I also love the beaches in Cannes!

That is, I’ll miss just about everything until next year!

PS. Right now, as I write this, I miss the fact Bonaparte is at work because I don’t know if the French title  of my is correct!

What do YOU miss when we leave your vacations? I want to know!

Here’s a song that I hear on Nostalgie that always puts me in a great mood! Phillippe LaFontaine’s “Coeur de Loup”. I have this song on a CD. I start car dancing in my seat when I hear it!

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 31 Comments

The Last Supper in Cannes. Or, As Good as It Gastounettes!

Friday, July 1, 2016

Wow. I can’t believe July is here already.  I also cannot believe that this is our last day in France for the summer of 2016. Bonaparte surprised me by telling me we are having dinner in Cannes tonight. I’ll need to take my new Rondini sandals out of my suitcase.

Balcony in Theoule

A last morning view of the sea from the terrace. I’m starting to get all misty-eyed now..

Bonaparte also reminded me that I should be as ‘eppy as he is that we will be returning to our little pup, Chippy.  Um. I’m not in that place yet so leave me alone. Monsieur B was incredibly upset that I didn’t have the same feelings as he did. I’m a regular Marie Antoinette!

Chippy

OK. I’ll admit it. Chippy was not on my mind while I was away. But now that I’m home, my little buddyroo is by my side. I love this little guy!

I want to stay here for the rest of the summer. But reality is calling and so is my angst. And so we will spend our last day at the pool. Bonaparte sunbathing.  And me under the umbrella.

One of the best things about our little apartment is the washing machine.  During our stay here I did a few loads of laundry. Because there is no dryer, the clothes dry on a rack on the terrace and there is nothing like air-dried clothing.

Theoule. Laundry on the terrace makes me happy!

That’s right!  I’ll never stop enjoying watching our clothing dry on the terrace either!

The one casualty was two burned fingers after I ironed.  What can I say?  My laziness makes me productive. When I unpack after we arrive home, all the clothes will be cleaned so I won’t have to spend time doing more and more laundry.

Our flight tomorrow from Nice to Paris is 7:30AM.  Ugh. I don’t want to think about it.

I’m going to the pool.

Theoule. La Galerie. Pool Pic 4

I’ll just drown my sorrows here. It’s much more fun!

You know how good things can randomly happen?  Well, instead of my last pool day being one of self-pity because we are leaving, it turned out to be a great fun day.

A few years back I met an American woman at the pool; Brenda. She has children and her husband is French.  They live in Boston but also have a home in this community of La Galère.  I never saw her again until today!  That feeling of knowing just one person in a place far away from home gives you a sense of familiarity.  It gives you comfort.  That was how I felt when I spotted her.

We reacquainted ourselves, had great conversation and spent a bit of time together talking about everything from food to politics. Luckily we are on the same page!

Honestly, I can’t begin to tell you how wonderful that made my last day.  It made me feel that La Galère is truly my second home. Kind of like “Oh yeah, I got friends here.”  “I know people!”

The pool’s salted water isn’t as cold as it was when we first arrived.  The air’s warmth has been a solar heater of sorts and the water is cold but not freezing. Bonaparte is in swimmer’s delight!

Virginia remains busy selling swimsuits and her tan is now bronze mixed with that envious caramel. She has no idea how lucky she is. She will never need a spray tan! She also tells me that I need to apply more sunscreen. Now I really feel at home knowing that she is watching out for me!

More children are playing in the pool and it’s nice to hear those happy voices laughing and splashing.  Not one is up on the diving board shaking with fear!

The lifeguard has begun his summer job and he disciplines the children that are running around the pool. They listen to him while ignoring their parents.

Helicopters and private planes are flying at a short distance over the coast. It’s the wealthy on their way to Nice airport.  I will never be one of them and I don’t care. Right now, I feel like a princess.

I’ll miss the happy feeling I have at this very moment of soaking this visual mural into my mind. This is the memory that’ll get me through the winter months.

Back from the pool, I realize now is not the time to wax sentimental. Instead, it is time to get ready to head into Cannes.

Bonaparte told me we would be having dinner at a restaurant overlooking the port at Cannes.  Au Mal Assis.  He knows of my love for seafood and wanted me to enjoy our last meal.

Au Mal Assis. Photo from tripadvisor UK

Somebody forgot to make reservations. It was not me! (I did not take this photo. I got it from TripadvisorUK)

Our plan was to drive into Cannes, walk around the port and then sit down at 7:00 PM for an early dinner since we had to wake up incredibly early to get to the airport.

We parked the car and we walked around the port.

Cannes. Port du Cannes 2016. July 1

Boats resting in the Port du Cannes..

Cannes. Port du cannes another shot of ferris wheel in the distance.

..another view with the Ferris Bueller Wheel in the background..

Cannes. Port du Cannes. Boats

I like the smaller boats–they have more character.

Cannes. Port du cannes. Cute old boat

And I love the old boats. I want a ride on this one!

Cannes. Last night. BLOG GOLD. My new rondini bikinis.

My new Rondini Bikini sandals are so happy walking around Cannes!

Cannes. Port du cannes. Smaller boats.

A nice vista of the port!

And when we arrived to the restaurant, we were not able to be seated. Bonaparte didn’t realize he needed to call for reservations. In Bonaparte’s world, he grew up with people to make reservations for him.  In my world, growing up, my family went to restaurants where reservations were never needed!

He could not get a table overlooking the port so we moved on.  I took this news with a laissez faire  train of thought because I wasn’t hungry yet. Had I been famished, my personality would have taken on a total petty bitch and monstrous one!

Our little walk up quai Saint-Pierre had us stopping in front of the iconic Gaston et Gastounette restaurant.

Cannes. Gasoton Gastounette. We had that empty table in the pic. 80

I snapped this pic after our dinner.  See the little table in the center that is empty? That was our table. Best table ever!

Bonaparte had enjoyed many wonderful meals here with his cousin, Xavier Gelin, in years past and always spoke highly about this restaurant. It holds a special place for him because Xavier and Bonaparte were extremely close.

xavier-gelin_0_1396811763

Bonaparte’s cousin Xavier Gelin. They were more like brothers and enjoyed many meals together.

The funny thing is, in the years we’ve been staying here, we’ve never ventured into Cannes for dinner!  Our dinners at The Club at La Galère, along with our willingness to laze in hedonistic pleasure enjoying meals on our terrace were enough to stop us from venturing out of our little box!

Tonight would end our little routine.

As we stood outside reading the menu, the maître d’hôtel approached Bonaparte.  Both men started speaking in French while I nodded my head up and down quite seriously. You know, so that it appeared like I actually knew what the two men were talking about. I’m as phony as my tan.

The next thing I knew, we were being led to the best table in the house. Table 80. We were seated at a table overlooking the port and being in a position to see and be seen. Screw the Cannes Film Festival—I was enjoying my very own festival!

Cannes. Gaston. Table 80

Table 80.  Remember this table if you are in Cannes and go to Gaston et Gastounette!

Bonaparte told me that we were lucky because we arrived a bit early as serious diners would be arriving later on. He also told me that we were dressed appropriately—he in a Lacoste shirt, khaki pants, and loafers; and me, in a Lilly Pulitzer shift, my hair still holding strong in my French “brushing” and my Rondini Bikini sandals.

Personally, I think Daniele’s spirit was just simply watching over us!

Cannes. Port du Cannes. Ferris Bueller Wheel.

View from the table (with zoom lens).  Across the port…

Cannes. Gaston. People watching from the table.

Two young ladies strolling along..

Cannes. Gaston. Best dressed lady. Somehow she made this look chic.

..and another sample of French chic right in front of me. I LOVE her metallic basket and her ensemble and her cute little dog!

Our meal was freakin’ fantastic!

We started off with Kirs, naturally.  For starters, Bonaparte had the Moules and I had the Crab Wasabi.

Food. Gaston. Bonaparte's appetizer. Moules.

Bonaparte’s starter of Moules was excellent…

Cannes. Gaston. My appetizer. Crab with wasabi. Unbelievable.

Crabmeat and Wasabi. And the wasabi wasn’t “in your face”. It was a subtle blend and it was delicious and delightfully presented.

  Our main plats—Bonaparte, once again went with his usual Entrecôte of beef (steak) and I decided on the St. Pierre fish with ravioli and a cream sauce.  I later found out that St. Pierre is also known as John Dory—a fish I had been dying to try for many years. I can say that it is outstanding!

Food. Gaston. Bonapartes entreout en poivre

Entrecôte of beef au poivre. I’m getting hungry just looking at this..

Food. Gaston.  Bonapartes veg.

Oh..and the veg that accompanied Bonaparte’s steak was great also. I know this. I ate most of it.

Food. Gaston. My dinner. St. Pierre (John Dory) Ravioli. Asparagus. Truffle sauce.

My St. Pierre fish (John Dory) with Ravioli, Asparagus and the best damned sauce I’ve ever tasted!

We drank a bottle of great wine. I have no idea what it was but it was really, really good!

I have no idea what the name of our dessert was because the amount of wine I consumed blocked my memory.  I do know it was one of the tastiest desserts I’ve ever had!

Food. Gaston Dessert. I can't remember what it was.

Whatever this was, it was incredible….

Cannes. Gaston. Ate the entire dessert. Empty plate club

…and every. single. last. morsel. was consumed.

I also cannot say enough about the great service we received. Our glasses of wine were constantly refilled, we were so well attended to and were treated incredibly well. I LOVE this restaurant!

Gaston Gastounette waiter or maitre d

Wait staff is hard at work both indoors and outdoors

Gaston Gastounette waiter works his ass off

..and the staff is efficient…

The restaurant is getting crowded

..and knowledgeable and attentive. 

We had an epiphany after dinner. We would end all our future trips to Theoule with a dinner at Gaston et Gastounette from now on!

Cannes. Carlton at twilight

We ended our last supper with a drive around Cannes. Sorry for the fuzzy pic but I was a bit fuzzy myself!

CANNES. BLOG GOLD. Driving by the carlton after a bottle of wine.

The Carlton at night–ain’t nuthin’ like a couple of photos taken after too much wine!

Cannes. Last night. Carlton Hotel

Um..OK. This is a bit better!

Time to get back to the apartment and get a few hours’ worth of sleep. I set the alarm for 3:30 AM but I know sleep will be restless for me.

I felt like Daddy Cool during dinner. To prove it, here’s Boney M with Daddy Cool. This was a huge hit in Europe years ago and reminds me of the Cote d’Azur!  Get a load of Boney M’s dance moves!

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 18 Comments

Dinner at Eight After Fondation Maeght!

Thursday, June 30, 2016

We only have two more days here before our return home. I’m beginning to feel anxious and started to pack for the return to the States.  Luckily we aren’t returning  with much more than what we arrived with.

It’s funny but not doing a ton of shopping makes me realize how important it is to just BE here and enjoy our time rather than go on a shopping spree.

My new Rondini’s, my Fragonard Fleur d’Oranger and Adopt scents are nestled away in my suitcase.

On this Thursday morning, the skies are overcast—but it doesn’t mean anything because the weather clears up so rapidly. We’ll go to the pool for a while and then we will visit the Fondation Maeght in St. Paul De Vence. Tonight we have a reservation at The Club for dinner at 8.  Hey! Dinner at Eight after Fondation Maeght!

St. Paul de Vence. taken from the car

Bonaparte shot this pic with MY phone.  He did a great job. This is a shot of St. Paul de Vence.  It’s a cute village but we passed on walking through this time around. As cute as it is, it is wayyyy too crowded with shoppers. 

We’ve visited the Fondation Maeght a few years back and, although I’m not a fan of abstract art, the grounds alone are cause to visit this museum.

Fondaton Maeght Brochure

Brochure pic since I FORGOT to snap one of the building!

Tarif tickets

The tarif is 15 euros for entrance. Is it worth it?  Yeah–pretty much so.

Hidden off the road and in the midst of trees, it is a place that can bring comfort and a bit of cool on an incredibly hot day.  Grab a place in the shade to sit and write or read or observe people.

Fondation Maeght. MOre views

Sculptures such as this Calder are scattered around the grounds…

Fondation Maeght. Great view of gallery and garden

..the grounds are beautiful.  Here’s the museum hidden behind the trees. Bonaparte took his pic too. He has that Lartigue talent for photography!

The “big” exhibit that is presently on view is one by Christo and Jeanne-Claude. Barrels.  It is a fascinating exhibit that can equate more to a giant project of sorts than to art. But hey, that is just my honest and unpretentious opinion.

Fondation Maeght. Christo and Jeanne Claude barrels.

Barrels as art–*sigh* art is so subjective..

Fondation Maeght. Barrel of fun 2

…..and barrels..

Fondation Maeght.  Barrel of fun 1

..and more artsy barrels of fun!

It is hard for me to process why the Fondation doesn’t have on display the private collection of Adrien Maeght.  How come?  You may wonder. Well, it’s because Adrien Maeght has, in his private collection, a good amount of paintings by Bonaparte’s father, Dany Lartigue. I want to see them. Unfortunately, I can’t phone old Adrien and tell him this. He would have me arrested and the gendarmes of the Cote d’Azur are already familiar with me because of my escapade in the streets of St. Tropez!

Anyway, there are quite a few sculptures that I’m fond of at this foundation.  Enjoy some of the photos we took during our revisit.

Fondation Maeght Green men fountains

These little green men fountains are really fun and cool…there are a few fountains at the Fondation Maeght..

Fondation Maeght. Another cool fountain

…such as this…

Fondation Maeght. Another green fountain.

..and this…

Fondation Maeght. Coolest fountain ever.

..and my favorite by Pol Bury. This was the coolest sculpture of all time. The tubes moved as water flowed out. I took a video but I messed it up. Sorry! I think I stood at this for ten minutes–it was mesmerizing!

Fondation Maeght. Braque pool mosiac BLOG GOLD

…a mosiac by Braque in a small pool..

Fondation Maeght a good egg.

Joan Miro’s sculpture in another little pool. He’s a good egg!

Fondation Maeght. More outside view

I just cannot say enough about the beautiful grounds and the surroundings.

Fondation Maeght. Miro sculputre.

OK. So there ARE some abstract pieces that I enjoy. I’m pretty fond of Joan Miro. His works make me happy!

Fondation Maeght. Miro 1

..perhaps it is my love for the color red!

Fondation Maeght. Chagall and Shiplap. What could be better. BLOG GOLD

A mosaic by Marc Chagall..

Fondation Maeght.  Little chapel

..the remains of an old chapel…

Fondation Maeght. SHIPLAP!

..and SHIPLAP! OMG. Is there a connection to Chip and Joanna Gaines here? Any Fixer Upper fans?  

Fondation Maeght. Closer of Cader sculpter on grounds

We bid farewell to Calder and the other artists at Fondation Maeght for this year!

Not yet ready to stop the fun, we headed into Cannes for a walk along La Croisette. Not much was going on so we ended up picking up a dress and shirt for Bonaparte’s granddaughter in a local shop.

Cannes. La Croisette. Old folks at home

That’s right. You heard it from me. La Croisette isn’t always hoppin’ with excitement.  Older people love to watch the goings on–which right now are not much!

Back at the apartment, it was time to get ready for dinner.

Every year we’ve been here, we always make it a point to have one or two (sometimes more) dinners at The Club at La Galere. This restaurant never ceases to fail. The food is consistently superior and this year’s dinner did not fail.

Theoule. Club la galere. tables set for dinner.

We have a great view from our regular table in the little alcove!

We also sit at the same table in the alcove off the pool. It’s private and is a great spot for enjoying the view.

Food. Theoule. Club. Kirs. Cin Cin.

A toast with our Kirs!

Theoule. Club la galere. Dinner menu

Tonight’s menu brought to us..

Food Theoule. Club. Crabmeaat app 2

For starters, Avocado and Crabmeat..

Food. Theoule. Club. Cutest little mini baguette.

How cute is this mini baguette?

Theoule. Club la galere. Dinner. Me happy with wine and wifi

Overjoyed because I have a moment of Wee-Fee (That’s French for Wi-Fi. Told you I was fluent!). Damn. I’m gaining weight by the minute. Weight Watchers I’ll be back when I get home!

Food. Theoule. Club Rabbit BLOG GOLD.

Lapin stuffed with Mushrooms and drenched in a delicious sauce. I ate the Easter Bunny and it was spectacular!

Food. Theoule Club. Bonaparte's usual steak.

Bonaparte’s usual.  Steak.

Food. Theould. Port la galere house reserve wine. Good enought to get me to pass out.

Club la Galere’s house wine. It’s really good!

Food. Theoule. Club. Dessert. Nougat floating out of cake.

..and after too much wine, my dessert photo is a bit out of focus. It was a chocolate lava cake with ice cream. I could have had three helpings!

Theoule. Club la galere. Bonapartes dessert.

Bonaparte’s delusional dessert. Cherry-red Ferrari.

Theoule. Club la galere. Diners at the pool

….more diners enjoying their meals poolside!

I don’t want this day to end. I don’t want this stay to end.

Dinner music by the sea for you. Georges Moustaki “En Mediterranee”. Thanks to 94lillyrose for the video!

Posted in fondation maeght | Tagged , , | 16 Comments

Hey! Don’t Rain On My St. Tro-Parade!–Just Another Day In St. Tropez!

Wednesday, June 29th, 2016

Today is the day we return to St. Tropez to see Bonaparte’s dad, Dany.  I’m really excited about this because Dany is a man who loves a well-rounded ass.  Hopefully, he’ll not be disappointed in this ass on our latest visit.

I was going to dress up for the occasion but Bonaparte told me that since Dany’s assistant was having the day off, we would be helping him to get around in his wheelchair.  I would be his “ass-istant”!

Ever the giver, I changed up my dress code to white shorts, a striped shirt and my Rondini Tropezienne sandals.  The same getup I sported when we went to St. Trop last week.

We left the apartment at 7:30 in the morning and drove to Ste. Maxime. We would take the Bateaux Verts water taxi from there to St. Tropez.  I love taking the boat because as the port of St. Trop becomes closer, the view is always one that makes me so damned happy!

Ste Maxime. the boat in the background.

A gloriously sunny day with clear blue skies.  Check out how clean this port at Ste. Maxime is..

Ste. Maxime. Les Bateau Vert in the water.

The little Bateaux Verts. It’s part of the summer fun!

The dock at St. Maxime is always bustling early in the morning.  People on their way to their jobs at shops, restaurants and other places in St. Tropez are lucky to commute via these small ferries.  And the people-watching is epic! Locals and tourists provide a fine blend of humanity.

Ste. Maxime. French chic is ageless BLOG GOLD

I need a moment here. These women all work in St. Tropez. They epitomize summer chic at the most casual.  But…check out my new girl crush on the right. The lady in green. OMFG–never in my life have I seen an older woman look so well-put together. 

Ste. Maxime. Best dressed woman in France.BLOG GOLD

The dress. The shoes. The sunnies. The bag. And she still managed to come across as incredibly chic and not overly matchy-matchy.  I just about stalked her..

STe. Maxime girlcrush closer

Seriously. And she worked at a fancy restaurant in St. Trop. I know this. I followed her. If anyone knows this woman, please hunt her down and make her get in touch with me. I need lessons in how to be as chic as her!

Ste Maxime. More french chic.

And another version of French  chic. So simple yet so elegant.  

Due to Dany’s health situation, he lives in a residence for seniors.  His body may be slower these days, but his wit and mind are stronger than ever.

St. Trop. A Sunny morning to visit Dany

Dany’s window on the top floor is second from the right. I think.

He was just as thrilled to see us as we were to see him. And for almost two hours he intrigued me with episodes of his life from childhood to his acquaintance with Picasso and friendship with aged artist Pierre Bonnard.  He held my interest telling me about his father, Jacques Henri Lartigue.  He kept me on edge as he told about his adventures during WWII and escaping a labor camp after being arrested by the Gestapo. And he kept me mesmerized when he told of his never-ending love for Bonaparte’s mother, Evie.

Dany Evie and Bonaparte

Dany with Evie and Bonaparte.  Every year he always professes his love for her–and her sisters–and his other wives..

dany and bonaparte

Dany also amused me with tales of Baby Bonaparte at La Ponche. Bonaparte looks like he wants to crawl away. Such independence!

Dany and bonaparte in hats

I have to say that this is my favorite pic of Dany and Petit Bonaparte. The hat. I swear I almost died laughing at Dany’s hat. And now I know why Frenchmen are in touch with their feminine sides–check out Bonaparte’s girl shoes and his ruffled hat! This photo deserves an award!

As he winded down his tales, he ordered me to look to my right and grab the flag of St. Tropez that was resting against the wall.  Then he pointed to a straw hat that was adorned with a red ribbon.  He told me that I should wear it.

There was a method to Dany’s madness.  We were going to have lunch about three blocks from Dany’s residence.  Since he is confined to a wheelchair, Bonaparte would wheel Dany to the restaurant.

Here’s where the flag and hat came in.  The sidewalks are incredibly narrow.  Too narrow for the wheelchair.  Thus, Dany told me that I would need to walk slowly in front of his wheelchair, being pushed by Bonaparte, through the streets leading to the restaurant.

Are you following?  Pay attention.

Dany’s intention was for me to wear the hat and wave the flag of St. Tropez as a warning to the vehicles motoring down the three-block stretch of road in order to protect him.

Before hitting the street, Dany had Bonaparte stop the wheelchair in front of a statue of The Blessed Mother. He asked for protection for his family—but I secretly think he made a deal with Mary to protect him first. From me.

It is hard to explain what happened as we approached the road. But it has something to do with me channeling my inner Edie Beale performing her infamous flag dance. The moment I hit the street, I forgot Dany’s instruction to walk slowly.

edie6

Yeah. Edie was dancing and marching with the American flag while I was…

I started to march. And as I marched, I held that flag high above my head. I felt the slight breeze hitting my French blow out as my hair moved to and fro.

Reanctment of my parade in St. Trop

..literally marching down the streets of St. Tropez like this!  I’m SURE there is a photo of me floating around France with the caption “Crazy American Lunatic Woman Thinks She Is Marianne leading the French Revolution of 2016!”

The hat made me look like a French majorette and I felt like Marianne leading the revolution. Albeit this revolutionary group was on their way to eat plenty of bread!

Marianne

Believe me, had the weather gotten any hotter and there was the possibility I would have been parading in the Streets of St. Tropez without my shirt!

Cars beeped.  Trucks honked.  Drivers slowed down to observe this special parade of one.

I marched with such a cadence that my ass swayed from side to side.  I stood proud and bold.  I never heard Dany and Bonaparte yelling out to me to slow down. Instead, it took a truck driver to roll down his window and scream out to me “REGARDE”, while pointing back to Dany and Bonaparte far behind.

And then, a Gendarme came running out into the street next to me. He started speaking in French at a fast pace and saying “Non! Non! Non”   while ending each sentence. As my motto is “Ignorance is Bliss”, I kept marching and smiling and pointed to the wheelchair about twenty feet behind me.

Louis de funes gendarme de Saint Tropez

Yes. Basically, the gendarme was yelling at me the way Louis De Funes did in the Gendarme movies.  Actually, the scene with me and the Gendarme WAS like a scene straight out of the Gendarme movies!

The gendarme, who was about to arrest me, recognized Dany and graciously escorted us to the restaurant, which was now in plain sight.

Our lunch at LaRamade was delightful!  I can’t say enough about this very local restaurant. It is far from the “see and be seen” crowd in St. Trop. It is like going to someone’s patio.  Jean-Pierre, the owner, he of the Robert Preston head of hair, is always pleasant and is quite friendly with Dany.  Jean-Pierre, like Bonaparte, spent his summers at La Ponche—actually he grew up on La Ponche.

St. Tropez. Danny holding court. Actually he's chiling from my parade.

Dany looking serious upon our arrival at the restaurant. I think he had second thoughts about me leading the parade!

St. Tropez. La Ramade. Jean-Pierre taking orders. What a head of hair.

Jean-Pierre of the fabulous hair taking lunch orders from the locals.

St. Tropez. La Ramade table under the trees.

How cute and charming is this restaurant?   It was such a pleasure to return this year. I do believe that La Ramade is one of my favorite restaurants of all time.

St. Tropez. La Ramade. Hats in the trees.

Well–you can find books on the ceiling in Cabris AND hats in the trees at La Ramade!

St. Tropez. La Ramade. I canot get enough of this resto.

The tables all set for the lunch crowd..

St. Tropez. La Ramade. Menu

What could be better in a garden restaurant than tapenade, bread and a menu brought to the table?

Food. St. Tropez. La Ramade. Rognon with pommes gallette and veg.

I’ll tell you what could be better. These kidneys. I was in heaven when I saw “Rognons de Veau” on the menu.  And the creamy potatoes were the perfect lunch..

Food.  St. Tropez. La Ramade.  Frogs legs.

Bonaparte and Dany each had frog’s legs. Had I been about forty pounds lighter, I would have ordered this WITH my kidneys..

Food. St. Tropez. La Ramade Strawberry and cream dessert.

..and YES. Adding to my deadly sin of gluttony, really, REALLY good strawberries and fresh whipped cream finished off lunch. Don’t judge. I’m paying for this now as I count points!

I think Dany had a few extra glasses of wine because he was dreading the march back home!

St. Tropez. La Ramade. Dany. 95 and puffing on a cigar.

After a few glasses of wine and a cigar, Dany was ready to hit the street again–with me in the lead.  97 and enjoying a cigar. We should all be able to enjoy that!

Our march back to Dany’s residence fared much better. I walked slowly in front of them.

And when we arrived back, Dany showed us some recent sketches.

St. tropez. Colorful Dany sketch.

A recent sketch that he did using markers…

St. Tropez. Dany sketch 3

…and another one..

St. Tropez. Danys sketch from earlier this year.

…and another. Dany sure loves the ladies!!

A short time later, he was becoming tired and needed to rest so we gave our goodbyes and I jumped in his bed to give him a farewell kiss.  Any misgivings about my parade were forgotten!

St. Trop. Danys a happy man.

Fun with Dany!  He forgot about my inability to follow directions.  It was so hot I had to put my hair up!

The remainder of our time in St. Trop was spent making a visit to Maison des Papillons-Musee Dany Lartigue.  This is the butterfly museum Dany created and is home to the thousands of colorful flutterers that he’s collected and received over the years.  It is also home to many of Dany’s paintings.

St. Tropez. Musee Dany Lartigue sign.

The little sign on the door leading to the La Maison des Papillons

St. Trop. Maison des Papillions. Butterflies

Even though I’m not into bugs, these butterflies are incredibly interesting..

St. Tropez. Danys film on butterflies GOLD

Dany explains it all in this little film in the studio..

St. Trop. Maison des Papillions. More butterflies in glass and painting

Another cool thing is that his paintings are used for backdrops for the displays of butterflies..

St. Trop. Maison des papillions. More butterflies and dany

which add more interest..

St. Trop. Maison des Papillions. Butterflies in front of Dany's painting

Isn’t it nice?

St. Trop. Maison des Papillions. Musee Dany Lartigue. Dany's Studio

Up in his studio we have his paintings on display..

St. Tropez. Danys Bar de la Ponche 2 BETTER PIC

This painting “Bar de la Ponche” is my favorite. I love the colors and you can spot Juliette Greco, Daniel Gelin, and Daniele among the crowd!

St. Trop. Maison des Papillions.  Courtyard view. can't get rid of those dates

In the courtyard we were able to see more of Dany’s work and the work of Martin, Bonaparte’s artist brother.

A return trip to Ste. Maxime on our little green boat was bittersweet as we looked back at the port of St. Tropez shrinking into the distance and disappearing from sight until next year.

St. Trop. Bonaparte's ship has come in

As we left St. Tropez, we got a good look at how it changed from Bonaparte’s youth.  Large Yachts took the place of..

Old school water taxi

..old boats like this. Personally, I like the run down boats better!

St. Tropez. I think we're leaving.

Bye till next year!!

We had an enjoyable dinner of leftovers and eggs; and when Bonaparte reminded me that we would be leaving for home in a few days, I was overcome with such a feeling of sadness that tears, as salty as the sea below us, flowed uncontrollably down my face.

Today was the best day ever!

Like Pink Floyd?  Here’s their happiest song ever “San Tropez”. The song really gives a vibe of how it really is on St. Tropez!

 

Posted in St. Tropez | Tagged , , | 39 Comments

Love Is In The Hair–A French Blow Out!

Tuesday, June 28, 2016

After yesterday’s drive up the road that shook the nerves, today is a completely lazy bum day of reading by the pool and not much else.

Bonaparte kindly suggested that since we are going to St. Tropez tomorrow to visit his dad that I just might want to make an appointment at a beauty salon and perhaps get my roots done and maybe get a blow out too.

Although I welcome this suggestion, I’m a bit hesitant because Adam, the stylist I go to and cannot live without, knows my hair; and he knows and understands about my hair loss issues.  But after taking a look in the mirror of the hair that hasn’t been washed in two weeks, I think Bonaparte just may have a point.

And before hitting the pool, I grab my Toppik, and head to the car to drive to the salon.

Theoule. Bubble House still here in 2016.

On the way to Geant we pass my favorite house. The bubble house down the street. This isn’t the Pierre Cardin bubble house. It’s someone else’s…

Theoule. Bubble house 2016 closer and closer

We had to sneak up on the fence to snap these pics. Look–the bubbles look like titties. I’m so in love with these little glass nipples…

Theoule. Bubble House 2016 windows

I want to caress these windows. Seriously. I love this house!

The galerie at Geant has a few hair salons, but I decided to make an appointment at Franck Provost. I’ve seen his chain of salons all over Paris and figured it was a safe bet.

Theoule. Geant. Long shot

How pathetic is this?  OTHER bloggers take artsy pics. I take pics of hypermarches.

Geant. Franck Provost. Sign.

Ladies and men. If you are in the area of Theoule-sur-Mer, might I suggest a hair appointment at Franck Provost?

I don’t care how uneducated I may be in the French language, but when it comes to making a hair appointment, I miraculously became quite fluent.

Me:  “Bonjour. Je voudrais prendre rendez-vous pour  un teinture, shampooing, conditionné et séchés .” “Pouvez-vous blow dry mes cheveux  d’une façon ondulée?” “Oh. Et je dois la perte de cheveux , mais je dois produit à déguiser .” “D’accord?” “A 17h30 ?”  “S’il vous plait?”

 Translation: Good Morning. I would like to make an appointment to have my hair colored, shampooed, conditioned and blow dried. Can you also blow my hair out in beachy waves?Oh. And I have hair loss but I have product to disguise. OK? At 5:30 PM? Please?

 Frenchman at front desk: “Nom?”

 Me: “Cat-reen” “Merci!”

 Easy peasy. A bit of grocery shopping, back to the apartment to change and…

Geant. Loading up on the fake sugar.

Let’s see. Fake sugar is always on my list. I have these in every purse!

Theoule. Geant. My favorite Creme de Cassis

Lest we not forget the importance of Cassis..

Geant. Saussicon. Yum!

I know..This isn’t food porn. It is merely saucisson! Now you know why I love Geant!

Geant. Little pop up card. Thought it was cute.

…and I have no idea who is going to receive this little pop-up card but I HAD to get it!

..back at the pool.  I gave “The Little Paris Bookshop” a final chance.  I’m telling you. This book was almost as painful to read as “The Scarlet Letter” was.

Theoule. Pool. More view

Back at the pool to do nothing but sit on my fat ass and read and suffer from hypochondria!

I’m not going to give you “spoilers” but this was one of  the worst books I’ve never finished reading.  The characters were not endearing. The book was poorly written AND one of the characters had a disease!

The disease is what threw me over the edge.  Look, I have nothing against tragedies. “Me Before You” was one of my favorite tragic books of all times—but it was about a tragic accident. It wasn’t about a disease.

 Books that are about awful diseases should carry a warning on the front cover. You know-like “smoking is bad for your health”.  These books should state the following:

Warning: This book contains a horrible disease. Hypochondriacs may become affected. They may also be prone to checking certain body parts multiple times a day and become stressed and anxious.  Therefore if you or a loved one suffer from hypochondria, this book may be harmful to your health.

 People at the pool started to stare at me because I sat in my chaise with a horrified look while checking my armpits for hours on end.

When we got back to the apartment, I placed the book on the shelf where I’ve left books in the past.  Apparently the owner of the apartment gets a kick out of this practice of mine because books I’ve left have remained on the shelf since 2010.

Theoule. Apartment. Book shelf addition.

These are the books that I’ve left over the years.  Little Paris Bookshop was the only one I despised!

This was the only book that I left with a note inside about how much I disliked it. I even left my email address for anyone who does decide to read it to let me know what they think of the book.

Travel tip: If you like to read during your vacation’s or travel’s downtime, and finish a book or two, leave them behind or give them to someone.  It’ll lighten your luggage on the way home and can give another visitor something to do during their downtime! Play it forward!

 Thankfully, I remembered my hair appointment. It distracted me from checking my armpits.

While I got my hair done, Bonaparte drove into Cannes to pick up wine from Nicolas. I entered Franck Provost smiling and happy because, hopefully, the staff would make me look human again.

Irene was my stylist. She was an adorable pixie of a woman with a raspy voice and smelled of cigarettes and perfume. A scent I was familiar with due to Danièle’s penchant for Marlboro lights and L’Heure Bleu. The aroma actually made me feel quite comfortable. I took out my Toppik, pointed to the top of my head, winked, and told her  “Apres color”.  For some odd reason she understood me.

Geant. Franck Provost. Iren and the other guy. Fun at the salon.

Oh. We were having a regular party here!  By the time I was finished, the entire staff and I were just about dancing around the salon!

My experience at Franck Provost was remarkable.

Geant. Franck Provost. This small salon works wonders.

This tiny little salon worked great big hair miracles!

My roots were completely covered and as I waited for the color to set in, I was able to observe the goings on at this tiny salon just feet from my beloved hypermarché.  I watched a young girl with a gorgeous head of hair get her hair trimmed and blown out to tousled perfection.   Older women with various shades of dyed hair entered for touch ups. Apparently women on the Cote d’Azur aren’t into the gray look! I fit right in!

The staff was incredibly friendly and kept coming up to me to see if everything was ok.  I was in heaven!

With all due respect to American hair stylists, Irene shampooed my hair so gently that I almost fell asleep.  Rather than a rough shampoo scrub, it was more like a gentle shampoo massage.  In addition, it took my YEARS to find Adam–he knows how to blow dry coarse hair. I cannot begin to tell you how many USA stylists do NOT know how to give a great blow dry job!

 The final cost for the shampoo, deep conditioner, color and blow out came to 75€. Tipping wasn’t allowed on the credit card and tipping is much different than here, I gave a 5€ tip—and it didn’t make me look cheap either.

Let’s do math.  The 80 euros I spent in total for my hair came to the USD equivalent of $88.12.   I normally pay $140.00 for the same services here in the States.

Theoule. Me. French blow out.

Does this hair not look fabulous?  I hope Irene is back next summer! She’s my hair bestie!

Happy with my hair. I can’t wait to see Bonaparte’s dad Dany tomorrow. But now—it is aperitif time!

Here’s a cute song I found from The Hot Sardines: “French Fries and Champagne”!

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , , | 44 Comments

The “Shore” de France. A Return to L’Estagnol. A Dangerous Road to Divinity

Monday, June 27, 2016

Clear skies.  No humidity.  And a bit of wind.  Bonaparte is worried because he thinks the Mistral has made a visit.   Overlooking the terrace before we depart for a second visit to L’Estagnol, he is concerned about the possibility of large mouton (the French word for whitecaps—I’m incredibly fluent, you know) in the little bay area off the sea.

I laugh and tell him it isn’t a big deal and we are off.

We passed the many hectares of vineyards and Olive tree orchards belonging to Leoube, a local company that produces wine and olive oil, and I explained to Bonaparte that I wanted to stop at the boutique for, as the Barefoot Contessa would say, good olive oil.  He promised me that we would stop on the way home.

L'estagnol. Sign

Back at L’Estagnol.  The best thing about this sign is that I have no idea whatsoever the bathing information that is posted means!

The familiar drive seems quicker this time and we arrive to an almost empty beach.  It may be windy to the French, but to me, it is merely a heavy but comfortable breeze.  The water that was as smooth as glass last week is now fitted “wiz leetowle” waves.  These waves are nothing like the Atlantic or Pacific!

L'estagnol. Arrive early

See those “huge” waves?  Yeah. Bonaparte and his mistral. Those waves were gone about two hours later!

The only mistral that took place was the song “Mistral Gagnant” on the car’s radio as we were driving here.

The sea is freezing but I don’t care. It’s refreshing.  I shiver as little droplets of ice cold water fall on Bonaparte.  It makes him stop complaining about the possibility of a noisy child next to us and, instead, he complains, in French, about the water I just sprinkled upon his gloriously tanned body!

A group of young school children arrive at the beach which nearly kills Bonaparte.  I remind Bonaparte that he has a granddaughter the age of these kids. He says no more.

As a look up, one of the children greets me with a wave and a “Bonjour”. I smile, wave back and say “Bonjour” back to her.   For Bonaparte’s sake, les enfants end up at the far end of the beach.

I spot the same photographer that I saw last week. He walks up and down the expanse of the beach snapping photos of the sun worshipers for a fee. He is professional. I call him over because I want to write about him in the blog.

L'estagnol. The elusive photographer afraid of speaking to me.

The mysterious photographer passes by. I’m surprised he didn’t want to photograph Bonaparte’s tanned legs!  Can you spot those giant waves in the water?

I’m intrigued by this photographer. Bonaparte is annoyed by this photographer.  I ask Bonaparte why he is annoyed by what I’m intrigued by. He mumbles something in French and reads the paper.

L'estagnol. The elusive photographer

I’m glad he made a sale!

Being typically French, the photographer is polite and cordial in his broken English. He explains that he is “under contract” with a company and declines to be “interviewed”.  Bonaparte validates his decline.  I snap a couple of photos of him and let it go. The photographer’s contract is certainly binding!

The ice cream girl walks by with her colorful little ice cream cart.  I want so badly to eat everything she is selling but I refrain after looking down at my blubbery gut.

L'estagnol. Goodies on the beach.

I wish I had gotten a better photo of the gloriously tanned ice cream girl but I was distracted by the word “Nutella”!

Her skin is the color of caramel. Her tan is perfect. She is a race unto her own.  I regret not snapping more photos of her legs. I would have taken the photos with me to my next spray tan appointment.

The little boy next to us has dug a hole. And he keeps going down to the water with a bucket to collect water. He fills the hole with water and the sand soaks up the water. He doesn’t give up. This is pure entertainment for me.

L'estagnol. Sailboat in the water

I wanted to swim up and invite myself..

L'estagnol. Where the hell am I

I never tire of this beach…

L'estagnol beach. early morning

L'Estagnol. Some weird seed pods from a pine tree. Very artisticThese fuzzy things had pine cones inside. I took some home to try to use as beauty blenders but they fell apart.

Ever the budding journalist, I made my way to Chez Richard to take some pics.  I had the pleasure of meeting Monsieur Richard while he was working in the smaller kitchen. He was so pleasant and funny!  He has a great staff and we enjoyed a second delicious lunch. And yes. I repeated my seiche!

L'Estagnol. Richard in the little snack kitchen

Monsieur Richard hard at work…

L'estagnol. Richard himself. A sweet man.

…until I interrupt him and make him laugh..

Food. Seiche La Planca number 2

..and I enjoy more seiche!

L'estagnol. Another view

Back at the beach for a while before leaving….

We enjoyed the remainder of our time at L’Estagnol and made the stop at the Leoube Boutique.

L'Estagnol. Entrance to Leoube Vineyards and Olive Huile d'Olive trees.

This is the big-ass gate to the Chateau Leoube.  I want to live here–I’ll take the servants quarters….

L'estagnol. Leoube building

The back next to the boutique..

L'Estagnol. Leoube Olive oil.

We bought a can of GOOD Olive oil and smuggled it back to the States..

L'Estagnol. Leoube Boutique 2

The wines looked great too–but the sales help wanted us out of there…

I’m going to be real here. In all my years of traveling in France, we’ve only experienced one moment of rudeness. It was in Nimes and a waiter who served us was a real prick of misery. But—that was his personality.

Our visit to Leoube was our second experience with the art of rude.  Perhaps it was because both of us looked like the monsters that came in from the beach.  The blue chambray dress that I had worn on multiple occasions was looking a bit raggy.  My face was as red as a tomato; my former “beachy” waves were now a mass of frizz that looked more like facial hair rather than wispy tendrils softening my face.

Bonaparte was wearing his bathing suit and an old Lacoste shirt that had a few tiny holes in it.

We were the French equivalent of Walmart shoppers. (Well, I was wearing my Walmart earrings!)

L'estagnol. No more face makeup. Just on the eyes and lips.

Was it my still-wet-from-swimming-and-clumps-of-sand dress? Was it my lobster red face? Was it my Walmart special hoop earrings that disgusted the sales woman at Leoube.  WTF cares? I got my “Good” olive oil!

You would think we were a disease the way the sales assistant handed over the can of expensive olive oil to us.   *SHRUG*  You can’t win ’em all.

Travel tip:  At one point or another, you WILL be confronted with rudeness or the act of someone being dismissive to you. Do NOT let this affect your feelings on an entire country or its people. Miserable people happen. They happen at home, during local travels and travels abroad.  Let it roll off your shoulder.  99.9 percent of the people you meet will be incredibly cordial, helpful and downright nice!

We drove around and became slightly misguided (lost) as Bonaparte took a wrong turn. The wrong turn led us to  Collobrières.  We ended up making a strawberry purchase from a roadside stand and driving through this cute village.

Collobrieres. Village sign

Collobrieres..

Collobrieres. Who knew it was the chestnut capital.

..is the chestnut capital of France..

Collobrieres. Lost among the vines

…lots of greenery here…

Collobrieres. Fig trees in the wild.

..and fig trees grow wild. I was so pissed off that the figs hadn’t reached ripeness yet. I would have CLIMBED this tree for that fruit. I love getting figgy with it….

Collobrieres. Strawberry man.

..and it was even better to come across this strawberry stand..

Collobrieres. Fresh strawberries. Don't pay attention to the sand in my nails.

..Now THIS is a strawberry. These were incredibly juicy, fresh, sweet and full of flavor. Why can’t we get strawberries like this at home?

As we drove around aimlessly, our conversation went something like this:

Me:               “What’s a bastide?” (pronounced by me as bass-tide)  “I’m seeing that word a lot”.

Bonaparte:  Eh?” “Wa ahr ou seee-eeng?” Plez spell eet”

Me:                B-A-S-T-I-D-E”

Bonaparte: Ahh..Bassteed!” “Is a fortified town” “I mean a leetowle town surrounded by eh fort”.

Me:              “Oh.” “I thought it was a bad Frenchman—you know, like, HEY you dirty bastide!!!!!”

 

A pause and a brainstorm by Bonaparte.

He decided that we should take a drive to the Chartreuse de la Verne, a monastery on top of a huge mountain in the Massif des Maures.  Since we were at the Massif’s edge, he thought it would be a fun way to spend the remainder of the afternoon.

178815_4926_chartreuse-de-la-verne

This is the monastery that we attempted to visit. The Chartreuse de la Verne. I did NOT take this photo. It is from Wiki..

It wasn’t.

My drawing on the way to the monastary

This is basically what we were faced with. Our wide car, a winding road as narrow as a string of yarn, and a monastery close to heaven. Neither of us was ready to take THAT trip!

It turns out that the monastery was sitting on top of a massive mountain in the Massif des Maures—which, I renamed Massive de Mort. This is a road where you can literally fall off the edge of the earth and nobody would ever find you. And vultures would hover around your decaying body and eat you.  And your bones would turn to powder and fertilize the trees. Thusly, Massive des Maures = Massive Mort. The road was winding and the drops were steeper than the Gorges de Verdun.  I couldn’t even look out of the car window let along try to take a photo.

It was either my heart that was in my throat or it was the seiche from lunch swimming its way up my stomach to escape. I couldn’t even open my mouth anyway—I was that  petrified.  I don’t even think the competitors in the Tour de France would attempt this road!

Rue st. Catherine

Had we gone any further on that road, I’m afraid my fate would have turned me into Sainte Catherine!

Finally, Bonaparte found a little area where we were able to turn the car around and make our descent.  He didn’t feel comfortable.  This is not a drive we will attempt in the future.

We’ll find another monastery closer to ground level.

After reaching the bottom of this huge mountain, we saw directions to Ste. Maxime.  It was great to see signs of civilization once again. It was even greater to drive along the coast on a road close to the earth.

Sainte Maxime poster

Sainte Maxime is now my patron saint! I’m not kiddin’ either!

And when we arrived home, we had a few well-needed aperitifs!

Food. Theoule. Apartment Kir royales on the terrace.

A few rounds of this to soften the stress of that drive were sorely needed!

CAVEAT:  Please let me know if these posts are boring you. I’m keeping it real with no smoke or mirrors and am hoping you are enjoying. I only have a few more posts about our trip so next week, I’ll be back to writing about other stuff. I’m hoping you are still enjoying!

Here’s Renaud with his mega-hit of 1985. Mistral Gagnant.

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 52 Comments

The Apartment. Dinner With Family. I’m Feeling Rather Local Today.

Sunday, June 26th 2016

Oops!  I was so tired last night that I forgot to write more stuff.

On our way back from Menton, we decided to visit the Musée Matisse in Nice.  As luck would have it, we arrived way too late to snag a parking spot.  Parking is limited.  There was no street parking due to a wedding at a nearby church.  Whoever got married was pretty darn popular because guests were parked in every available space within a half mile!

Musee_Matisse_2 from wiki

Musée Matisse. This pic is from Wiki because I forgot to take a photo.  We will visit NEXT time and will make sure to arrive early in the morning!

We decided to try our luck revisiting the Musée Marc Chagall.  The parking situation was worse.  It’s like being in Manhattan with the street parking.  Rather than drive around wasting precious time, we drove home.  Proof that timing is everything when touring.  We need to arrive early.

Chagall musee exterior

I had to go into my photo archives on my Shutterfly account to get this photo I took a few years back. This is the exterior of the Musee Marc Chagall.

chagall musee interior

Another shot I took.  We’ll revisit next time around!

It also proves that you take the good with the bad. We love having a car here because we can be in control—but, we can’t always be in control of parking.

I was in dreamland by 9:00 PM.   I’m a regular barrel of fun on vacation.

We’re meeting Bonaparte’s niece, Nathalie, and her daughter, Elodie, for dinner this evening. They spent a couple of days in St. Tropez with Bonaparte’s dad, Dany, and are now on their way back to Paris via train.

We’ll meet them in St. Raphael.

Another beautiful morning here on the terrace overlooking the Mediterranean and we are witnessing some strange goings on.  A yacht is anchored not too far from the shore.  From Bonaparte’s binoculars, we can see the guests and crew standing on one of the decks looking down at the sea.

People on jet skis are circling the yacht. First close to the boat and with each lap, the jet skis move a bit farther away.

A helicopter is hovering over the large yacht.  It circles closely at first then moves into larger circles.

Is someone lost?  Is this a British Yacht seeking asylum from the Brexit?  We both hope all is well.

Because we had such an active day yesterday, today we are bumming it back at the pool.  And it is noticeably more crowded.   The vacationers have arrived.  I detect other accents among the French; German, Dutch, Russian, Australian, British, Italian, Spanish—but no American ones.

I stand alone. Or rather I laze alone. Under the umbrella.

Theoule. Pool 2016 foot shot.

My usual spot. Under the umbrella!

So I write instead. And today I’m writing about our apartment.

Bonaparte “found” this apartment through an extensive online search back in 2010.  Previously, we stayed at his mother’s little home in Ensues.  After her death, the house was sold.

What was Bonaparte looking for?

He wanted an apartment close to the sea.  He also wanted a place in a convenient location. One that would lend itself well to our day trips and touring.

realy cool sailboat

Bonaparte couldn’t have found an apartment with a better view.  This beauty has been a regular sight for a couple of years now..

In addition, we needed parking since we would have a car.

rolls

Parking was great. As you can see from this Rolls that Bonaparte is obsessed with, nobody is too concerned with anyone breaking into their vehicles.

He found it all in the gated community of “Port la Galère” in Theoule-sur-Mer.

The apartment is perfect for us.  It is a gated community; and in order to get into the community, a pass is needed.

Theoule.  Port la galere. Pass to enter the community.

Yes, my friends, I am THAT weirdo who collects our entrance passes from each year. 

Steps to apt

Steps leading up to “our” apartment (I love to say that because it sounds so pretentious. I can dream, can’t I?)

keys

Our little keys to…

Theoule. Front Door of our apartment

…the front door that leads to….

living room

…the living space. Notice the little round table in the left-rear. In all the years we’ve been here, we have never eaten a meal indoors..it’s always…

breakfast

…out on the terrace. Breakfast and dinner….

flowers on the terrace

…and besides the sea view, we have lovely flowers to admire while enjoying the terrace…

bedroom

..which leads to the bedroom on the opposite side of the living space.  (I took this photo last year).  Notice the doors are opened.  In the years we’ve been staying here, this year was the only time we closed the doors while sleeping. It was one night and Bonaparte closed the doors because of  noise from a party.  

my little kitchen window

The little kitchen window.  There are always plants to greet me while I’m cooking!

basketball court

The community even has a basketball court and playground for the kiddies! Oh..and tennis courts too.

Port la Galère also houses a small club, complete with great hotel rooms and an excellent restaurant. (I sound like a commercial. Trust me, I’m not sponsored, but we just love this place so much and have been staying here for years!)

hotel

..a view of the club from our table at the restaurant…

hotel key

During our stays, we have spent a couple of nights at the hotel. I’m telling you, the rooms are fantastic!

view from the room at hotel

View of the restaurant area from the hotel room. I think this was taken the year before last.

view from our table

View of the club’s pool from our table at the restaurant..

menu at club

The club’s menu is brought to your table. I’m telling you, we’ve had some of our best meals at this restaurant over the years. The food is consistently excellent!

After a few hours at the pool we went back to the apartment to get ready for our dinner with Bonaparte’s niece.

A nice drive along the coastline brought us to our destination in St. Raphael.

We enjoyed a nice private dinner at La Factory. For me, it was fun to see Bonaparte leaving English behind and getting into the groove of his native tongue. It was also enjoyable to people watch while Bonaparte and Nathalie spoke of family matters.

St. Raphael. LA Factory Restaurant exterior.

Silly me. At first I thought the name of this place was “L.A.” Factory! I forgot we were in France–oh la La Factory!

Food. St. Raphael. LA factory. Steak Tartare. Frites. Salad. Yum.

My steak tartare and frites. I couldn’t finish because the portion was so huge.  The tartare was excellent.  The frites were very good but the dressing on that little salad was the best I’ve ever had. It was a light creamy lemon dressing. I didn’t get the recipe.

Bonaparte’s surprise was the many photos and photo albums that his niece, Nathalie gave him.

St. Tropez circa 1950 Isabelle

One of Bonaparte’s favorite photos is this one of his sister Isabelle (RIP).  Is she praying for a great meal of seafood?

Bonaparte and isabelle as babies la ponche

I”m kinda fond of THIS pic of Bonaparte and Isabelle taken at La Ponche. The hats. I love them!

Travel tip: Try not to be all “food snobby” when on vacation.  We weren’t looking to have dinner at a fancy place. Nathalie and Elodie were in transit from St. Tropez back to Paris and were limited in time.  We ended up at La Factory in a random moment and ended up having a really good and inexpensive meal.

Hugs, kisses on the cheeks, a wave goodbye and they were back on their way to Paris.

St. Raphael. Ferris beuller wheel.

And we left St. Raphael by driving along the coast.

We drove along the coastline back to the apartment.

France 2016 Random bay shot. On the way back from St. Raphael

..stopping to snap a photo of boats on the bay..

And while driving, we both decided that tomorrow, we will return to L’Estagnol!

A nice, sweet great driving song for you on this Sunday.  Le Métèque by Georges Moustaki. Thank you FreeNeverSaid for a great video!

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , , | 22 Comments

Be Nice. All of Us.

Tis time to be niceI don’t know who created this lovely little painting. But it rings true.  It is time to be Nice..

I’m sorry that I didn’t post yesterday but the news of the latest attack upon innocent people is incredibly upsetting.

To those who questioned my traveling to France because it isn’t safe.  It IS safe. This incident of hate doesn’t make an entire country unsafe. It makes it stronger.

The incidents in Paris. Makes the French stronger.

Orlando, Columbine, Sandy Hook…all have made us stronger.

We need to find a way to destroy evil–but in the meantime. We all need to be Nice.

NIce. Hotel Negresco

..and two weeks ago we drove along this area. And next year we will drive along it again.

Thank you…and remember our world is changing for the worst. We need to change it for the better.

Love and Hugs,

Cathe

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 49 Comments

Did I “Menton” How Great France “Eze”?

Saturday, June 25, 2016

Note to self.  Please stop drinking water from the tap whenever you travel.  Your stomach gets “weird” whenever you are far away from home.

I mean it.  My stomach was killing me last night. And when did I go from being incompetent to being incontinent?  I’m continental dammit!

EZE. Me. Eze outift of the day. BLOG GOLD

My OOTD–taken when we got back to our apartment. And perhaps after a few aperitifs. Note. This was the last time I used the selfie stick. It’s just too much work for me.  I’m wearing a $9.99 skirt from Loft..it was so light and airy.  A very light and strechy T from J. Crew and my old faithful Rondini Tropeziennes on my feet. The sandals were GREAT for walking around all day!

Saturday and I’m feeling much better.  Bonaparte and I have an incredibly ambitious itinerary.   We are going to Eze Village, Monaco and making a last stop in Menton. All in a day!

We certainly picked a great day to embark on our touring.  Clouds are looming and the weather report is for clouds and sun.

For quite some time, I’ve wanted to visit Eze.  I’ve read about how charming and story bookish the village is, and I’ve also read many reviews validating this.  We tried to visit last year but we arrived late in the afternoon to no parking available whatsoever. So we left and figured that we would have to leave early in the morning to visit this enticing and magical village.

In addition, I’m a big fan of Jean Cocteau.  The Musée Jean Cocteau is in Menton, a short drive from Eze and was on my “2016 to-do” list.  Bonaparte wanted to make a visit back to Monaco so we decided to tackle all three places.  In one day!

We took the “Bord de Mer” as far as we could to get to Eze.  There are actually two roads that lead to the top village. One is a bit narrow and windy and kind of dizzying.  The other is more –I guess you could say-direct and easy.  We took the easy (or shall I say “Ez-ee”) road.

Eze. On the road to

On the road to Eze. Up in the clouds…

Within minutes we arrived at the foot at one of the cutest villages I’ve ever been to

Eze autre directions in village

Directions posted just at the end of the municipal parking lot. (Note the word “Bastide”. This will be popping up in a future post)

Travel Tip:  If you drive to Eze, by all means—plan to arrive early in the morning. I mean it. The earlier you arrive, the better your chances of a decent parking space.  Spaces for locals are reserved on the street.  For visitors—you need to pay. We learned through trial and error.  We arrived in Eze at 10:30AM and the municipal lot was almost full!  The tarif for parking at the municipal lot is 1€40 for the first hour.  If you don’t go to the  exotic Jardin at the top of the village or eat a meal, you CAN tour the village from 1 to 2 hours.

We arrived to lots of clouds. Trust me this was a great thing because it is so comfortable walking around when the sky is a bit overcast. The temperature lends itself well to exploring.

Eze hard to look down from this high.

This was the beginning of our ascent to the top of the village. See how cloudy it is?  It was great!

Travel Tip 2: There are tons of steps leading to the top of the village so wear shoes that won’t have you slipping and sliding.  I cannot stress this enough. Especially if you have bad knees. For me, I have no depth perception so luckily, there were railings to hold onto while making our descent.

Eze is fairytale country. Had Rapunzel been throwing her hair out of one of the village’s towers, I wouldn’t be surprised.  If I had spotted Snow White or Sleeping Beauty in the flower-filled cemetery near the church at the top, the sight would have been welcomed!  I would have stayed until both Prince Charmings arrived!

Eze pretty house BLOG GOLD

Little stone steps in clusters..

Eze flowers in the rocks GOLD

..random little bouquets of flowers growing from the rocks. Damn. I just noticed those cigarette butts. That’s so disgusting.  I wish I knew how to photo shop them out…

Eze little passageway

..little pathways. We were lucky to be here when the crowds hadn’t yet arrived.

Eze. Path lined with fleurs

Flowers and vines holding us in like bookends.

Eze. More steps to walk. Chateau Eze on right.

And more steps.

Our way up the village was slow and full of little discoveries.

Eze. Little square with fountain

A stop for a moment in a little square gave us a photo op and…

Eze. Eau no. Fountain close up

…a close up of this fountain. After last night’s result from tap water I wasn’t even going to attempt.

Eze. Up the steps to the steeple.

Closer…and..

Eze. Top o' the world. BLOG GOLD

…closer to the top.

Eze. My head is in the clouds. Literally!

In all my 61 years, I’ve finally give validation to all the people who told me that “my head is in the clouds”. Well–now it is!!  Or rather–it EZE!

When we made it to the top, we stopped into the church that is dedicated to Our Lady of The Assumption.  Another old and in a “state of disrepair” church, the interior was filled with the ethereal scent of mustiness combined with the remnants of frankincense.  I lit a candle to St. Teresa the Little Flower and Bonaparte made a donation for the maintenance of this precious place of worship.   The many churches in France are the best places for reflection—and you don’t have to be Catholic either!  It’s like Levy’s Jewish Rye Bread—you don’t have to be Jewish to enjoy it!

Eze. Exterior of Eglise Notre Dame de l'Assomption

The climb up to the church made it seem more like a pilgrimage.

Eze. Ceiling at Eglise Notre Dame de l'Assomption

Even though the interior was run down, the ceiling remained beautiful.

Eze. St. Teresa.

St. Teresa seemed a bit happier to see me than my friend St. Rita did!

Eze. Candle for St. Teresa.

A candle for my special intentions (me) and a donation rounded out our visit to the church.

We stopped at a memorial for War victims, made our way to a little cemetery and stopped on a bench under a shaded tree to watch people.

Eze memorial for those killed by the Nazis.

A memorial for all the residents from Eze who were murdered in wars. Let’s hope there are never any more names…

Eze Cemetary at the top.

The tiny fairy tale cemetary. Close your eyes and envision Sleeping Beauty and Snow White waiting for their Prince Charmings…

Travel Tip 3: Another tip I cannot stress enough about. What to wear—freakin’ wear what makes you comfy when traveling.  I’m beginning to take offense when I read about what slobs Americans are (and I’m even guilty of saying that).  Tourists from MANY other countries dress down. Way down. Don’t be intimidated.  Remember—you are a tourist. You are looking at sights and climbing up and down stairs. You are walking through dirt.  Comfort comes first.

Eze. A mix of French and Italian visitors. Who's chic now

Yes. We are in France–but we aren’t in Paris.  Touring for the day? Don’t worry about being the fashionable American.  Trust me, NONE of these tourists were American.  Can you spot the chic? I didn’t think so.

Since it was still rather cloudy and we had more to see, we passed on the exotic garden. The admission tariff was 6€ 50 per person. We agreed to come back next year on a day where the sun would be shining on the flora, fauna, and cacti!

Back in the car—and offering luck to another driver by freeing up a parking space, we were on our way to Monaco.

Menton. On the road to Monaco.

I honestly can’t remember whether this pic is on the way to Monaco or Menton. But hey, it is one or the other.

For some ungodly reason, we always get lost in Monaco. This is a strange phenomenon because the area is no bigger than NYC’s Central Park. But the streets are winding and it does become a bit confusing. I can’t even.  This year was no different.

We’ve been to Monaco quite a few times.  We didn’t go to Monte Carlo because, quite frankly, after walking around that area once years back—it was enough.  Pragmatically speaking, we don’t travel above our means and MC is a wealthy jet-setter’s playground. We’ll be back when I win the lottery. Or when I discover that I really am an heiress who was abandoned many years ago by her unwed mother.

Monaco. Quiet little street

A quiet street in the Old Town section of Monaco. Can you believe how clean it is?

Monaco. Wedding guests

You never know what you will stumble upon. At first I thought this was how Monegasques dressed to check their iPhones. Then we discovered..

Monaco. Wedding BLOG GOLD

They were wedding guests!  I wished we had been dressed better so we could blend in with the wedding! Isn’t this the perfect tourist timing moment?

Instead we revisited the Old Town area of Monaco. This area is wonderful for walking about, stopping to admire the buildings, making the way to the Grimaldi palace and some fantastic photo ops.

Monaco. Where every building is spotless.

I’ll bet these windows are washed twice a day..

Monaco. The palace that really should be my home.

Why the crowd at the Grimaldi Palace? I’m sure they aren’t coming to see me!

Monaco. Oh My Guard!

Another regret. I should have taken a video of this guard marching up and down in front of the palace. He had fancy footwork and everything..

Monaco. Everyone is so perfect.

I wanted to slip him a note asking him how he got his whites so bright and if he wanted to meet my beautiful daughter. I think Oona would do well in Monaco!

Monaco another vie from atop.

By this time the sun was playing hide and seek every minute or so. Monaco is so densely populated–but with wealthy residents!

Monaco. Another view

Another view–with sunny skies!

Monaco. Cute porch photo BLOG GOLD

I couldn’t resist this little porch. Everything here is just so perfect.

Monaco. Me kissing a statue. He did not turn into a prince.

They say that residents of Monaco can be cold at times.  Well, THIS guy certainly proved it when I gave him a goodby kiss! He probably didn’t like my trashy Walmart earrings! Seriously. I really like Monaco. A lot!

You will be fascinated at how immaculately clean Monaco is. I swear Disneyworld is filthy compared to this pristine principality! If I dropped an ice cream cone top first, I would still manage to lick it because there would be no dirt upon it at all!

After walking and frolicking in Old Town, we were back in the car and headed to Menton.

Travel Tip 3: Back to parking.  Like the parking garage at Marche Forville in Cannes, the parking garage which led us to Old Town in Monaco also offered a free first hour.  Why can’t the garages in NYC do this? It’s a great way to bring in tourism—you actually get something for free!

Menton. View from the car.

Approaching Menton. A view from the car. I think. Maybe it was when we exited the car and walked toward the Musee Cocteau.

Visiting the Jean Cocteau museum was big for me.  His film “La Belle a la Bette” (Beauty and the Beast) is one of my favorite films of all time. He turned this fairytale into a dream. He did.  Add to that, one of my favorite French actors, Jean Marias, was Cocteau’s partner in a very tumultuous relationship.

Menton. Outside of the musee jean cocteau

View of the Courtyard in the front of the  Musee Cocteau.  That sculpture of the whale is really cool.

Menton. Musee Jean Cocteau. Severin collection exterior

The collection Severin Wunderman was jaw-dropping incredible!

Menton. Jean Cocteau Musee. La Belle a Le Bette poster.

A poster of one of my favorite films!

Menton. Musee Jean Cocteau. Sketch 2

Sketches by the talented Cocteau included his friends…

Menton. Musee Jean Cocteau. Drawing of his and my hearthrob Jean Marais.

..and those he loved–such as Jean Marais

Mucha Medee

I’m so angry at myself for not taking a pic of this poster which was at the museum. I was so enamored with everything that I completely forgot to take more photos. I’m sorry. I’m sorry because there were posters such as this one by the great Alphonse Mucha . Although I didn’t take this photo, I have photos of his work from exhibitions on past visits to Paris. He’s the father of Art Noveau.

Jean Marais tidbit: Danèle knew Marais. She said that he was absolutely “adorable”. Bonaparte told me that to call someone adorable in the French language is a pretty high compliment.  That made me love him even more!

Jean Cocteau was a true Renaissance man and was multi-talented. He was a writer, an artist and made some intense films.   We need more Cocteau’s these days.

Menton. Musee Jean Cocteau. Head shot BLLOG GOLD

This photo pretty much sums up who Cocteau was. Writer, artist, editor, filmmaker–oh, and lover of cigarettes.

I could have spent all day in this incredible, fascinating building of wonder and treasures! A viewing of his film “Les Infants Terrible” was on screen. I needed a chair to sit my expanding rear upon but Bonaparte wouldn’t let me watch the film. We were on the meter. We parked on the street and only had a limited amount of time.

Another surprise was a showing of an 80-minute short of the film “Orpheus”. Danièle’s ex-husband, the actor Daniel Gelin was starring in it.  This time I did manage to park my rear on a bench. And once again, Bonaparte reminded me we were on the meter.

I’m coming back here next summer! I need to take more photos of this wonderful place1

I have to. What I didn’t realize was that across the street, on the edge of the beach, was another small, older version of the Musée Jean Cocteau!

Menton. OLD Cocteau musee.

I have no idea what treasures are in store here, but I’ll find out in the future!

Speaking of beaches, Menton’s beaches and shoreline are quite different from that of L’Estagnol and some others along the Riviera.  Menton’s beaches are pebbly and rocky.

Menton Beach scene 1

This stretch of beach is directly across the Cocteau museum. If you like a rocky beach, and are visiting the museum, you may want to wear your bathing suit under your clothes and spend some time here.

Menton. Bathers on the beach.

Sunbathers and swimmers in Menton.

Menton. I'm sure of it.

Another view of Menton

If you aren’t crazy about fine sand, such as my dad was, the Menton beach is a definite for you!

What’s great about the Cote d’Azur is that the shoreline gifts you with many different types of beaches—there’s one for everybody!

Menton. Marche

The Marche in Menton. Had we arrived earlier, we could have spent quality time here!

We took the scenic route back.  I wish we had come to Menton earlier because the Marche, which was just about closed, looked like a great place to visit. Especially since I saw signs for Socca—a chickpea crepe that I’ve been wanting to try (I make chickpea pancakes and they are delicious!)  Next year!

Our drive back also made me realize just how bad my sense of direction is. I had no idea that Nice airport was so close to the sea. When I mentioned this to Bonaparte, he almost jumped the car onto the median.

I end my journal entry for today here.  I am getting my lazy on.

Jusqu’à demain!

Here’s another Laurent Voulzy song for a nice slow drive:  “Belle-Ile-Mer: Marie Gallant”

NOTE:  All photos, except where noted, were taken by either me or Bonaparte.  If you want to use them, please shoot me an email!  Thanks!

Posted in Eze | Tagged , , , , | 24 Comments

A Caprice in Cabris

Friday, June 24, 2016

Hi Journal. I’m sorry that I’ve been lacking in writing but I’m beginning to lose track of the days. I was thinking of  journals past and I’ve written volumes.  Now I’m afraid that I’m treating my journaling like a third child. You know—a million photos are taken of a first born; then a bit less with the second child. By the time the third child rolls around you have to search for the fewer photos you’ve taken.

I promise to write more next year.

Today we woke up to the news of the “Brexit”. The people of the United Kingdom voted to leave the European Union.  This is bad. And I’m afraid it will affect voting in the USA. I don’t want Trump to be elected.

Wait! I’m not thinking about politics on this wonderful trip.

We’re going to laze by the pool today for a while.  There was a notice that due to a wedding, the pool will be closing at 2:30 this afternoon.  Can you imagine having your wedding here? I’m so pissed that I’m not wealthy. I want to have Oona’s wedding here one day.

Theoule. Pool My lazy ass feet at the pool

I take my favorite place at the pool. Luckily I have hearing like a dog and can listen to the conversations of the wedding party.  And pretend that my daughter, Oona, is going to have HER wedding here someday. I better start that diet now!

If only Oona knew what I was thinking she would beg Bonaparte to have me committed.

At the pool, wedding guests were bragging about the celebrations. I was eavesdropping on what the women were going to wear. I was also eavesdropping on where some guests were going after the wedding festivities. One couple was going to spend eight weeks touring throughout Europe.  I’m jealous!

After soaking the sun under an umbrella, we up and left to change.  We decided to take a drive to Cabris!

Theoule. Me. OOTD. White J. Crew dress which I wore constantly BLOG GOLD

Outfit of the afternoon. It’s about time I put some real clothes on! I’m wearing this years-old shift from J. Crew. This white dress is perfect for the weather on the Cote d’Azur. It’s cotton and breathes!

Cabris holds a special place for Bonaparte  because his daughter spent many summers with her grandparents there.

Cabris. View from above

View from the village of Cabris. It’s located higher up in the mountains so the views never fail to please. Sorry about the date on the camera. I was messing around a bit and ..well–you know!

Cabris. Me in the dopey cheapo sunglasses that ended up being the greatest purchase.

I’m mighty high here!

The lapsed bad Catholic girl in my loves visiting Cabris because every year I get to see the statue of Saint Rita and pray to her for money, a job, Botox, a winning Lottery ticket—things that nice girls shouldn’t even think of. But somehow old St. Rita takes my pleas with a grain of salt and pays me no mind.

Cabris. Back to see St. Rita. She looks annoyed

St. Rita. Every year I visit her. Every year I ask more more and more. She’s not looking to happy with me…

Cabris. Back to see the altar at the chapelle of St. Rita

..I also stop to pause for reflection by the altar at the little chapel and every year I take the same picture.

In the past, we’ve been to this charming little village when the heat index was supernatural. Hell was cooler.

This year, surprisingly, the weather was rather comfortable. Maybe around low 90’s with zero humidity.   As usual the drive was pleasant, and even more pleasant was the fact that we got a parking space under the shade of trees.   Actually parking in Cabris is always good.

Cabris is little village and one of those places that just seems to take a baby step back in time.  The homes are cute and well-maintained.  There isn’t a lot of hustle and bustle.

Cabris. Decorations outside the house.

Houses are adorned with cute decorations..

Cabris. Curved street

..and the narrow streets, which are more like passageways, are lined with homes..

Cabris. Little orange trees

Trees with little oranges line the way..

Cabris another shot of purple chairs

…..people can keep stuff outside of their homes and it won’t get stolen..

Cabris. Another cute table and chair GOLD

…grab a seat and watch the world go by….

Cabris. sleeping cat at front door. GOLD

…or be like this cat and take a nap outside

Bonaparte said that it’s pretty much the same now as it was thirty years ago.

Cabris. House

I love the cushioned bench.

Cabris. Church

..an old church that never seems to be open..

Cabris. Auberge

..a restaurant and auberge..

Cabris. Street scene

Another building..

We also took time out to visit an adorable little galerie that I had seen for a couple of years, but it was never opened when we passed by.  I’m so happy that we were in Cabris when the galerie was opened.

Atelier Galerie Lulu.

Cabris. Atelier Galerie Lulu sign

We’ve passed by in previous years, but this was the year we finally entered the studio. Atelier LuLu is named for Lulu the artist’s cat!

Cabris. ATelier galerie lulu. Where is Lulu

…shhhhh. Lulu is sleeping. Or hiding from me.

Seriously. This galerie is the greatest little studio/galerie I’ve been in.  The outside is inviting and there is a little bench with books that you can have. Well—just to have!  The owner/operator/artist in residence is Olivier Buccellato. Olivier is quite the handsome Frenchman AND he is incredibly creative and talented.

Cabris. Olivier the artist at work and play

Olivier Buccellato at work.  I would like to introduce him to Oona!

The atelier is pretty much dedicated to his cat, Lulu!

Cabris. Lulu. Free books.

How can you not love a studio that gives out free books??

I was glad that Olivier allowed me to take photos of the place.   I wish Olivier the best of luck with his galerie because it is such fun, funky and pleasant.  You know how you walk into a place and you get this vibe that it’s just a good, good place to be in? Yeah. That’s how Atelier Galerie Lulu is.  If you ever get the chance to visit Cabris, definitely stop by the Galerie. You just may get to see Lulu too!

Cabris. Lulu interior shot

The inside of Atelier Lulu.  This is the perfect place to curl up with a good book on a rainy day!

Cabris. Atelier Galerie Lulu. Books on the ceiling

Maybe it rains books sometimes. Olivier said that he attaches books that he isn’t crazy about on the ceiling.  That’s a good thing because I trash books I don’t like!Cabris Atelier Galerie d'art Lulu  Print of lulu

I’m really diggin’ Olivier’s work. Lulu!

Cabris. Atelier Lulu. Lulu!

A closer look.

Cabris. More Atelier lulu

More Lulu inspired artwork..

Cabris. Atelier Lulu

So glad we entered into this galerie!

Cabris. Lulu Business card

Don’t forget to visit the galerie when you are in Cabris!

Cabris is always a pleasure to visit. It is always slightly sleepy and there is a certain sense of ease with the people who live and work there. My guess is that St. Rita likes to watch over them.

Cabris. Back to see Saint Rita.

She’s glad that I’m gone for another year. She told that little statue so.

We enjoyed another long dinner on the terrace. Tonight we had one of the great little chickens that the French roast so well. The flavor packs a punch.  A salad of tomato, mozzarella, drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with basil, salt and pepper was perfect for this hot summer evening.

Food. Theoule. Apartment Kir royales on the terrace.

Aperitifs on the terrace before…

Food. Roast chicken on the terrace.

…delicious, cold, roti chicken…and

Food. Tomato, Moss. Basil. Canot get enough

Tomato and Mozzarella.

Nighty night! Tomorrow we have a rather ambitious schedule. Eze. Menton. And Monaco.

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

I leave you with one of my favorite songs by Michel Polnareff:   La Poupee Qui Fait Non.  It’s very Ye-ye!

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 36 Comments